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Hill's Route on Wigwam Dome: A Classic Trad Climb in Lost Creek Wilderness

Hartsel, Colorado United States
offwidth
chimney
hand crack
multi-pitch
fixed gear
granite
brush
traditional
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Hill's Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hill's Route offers five pitches of classic trad climbing on Colorado’s Wigwam Dome, featuring a demanding offwidth crux and rich granite textures. This line rewards experienced climbers with solid protection challenges and scenic wilderness solitude."

Hill's Route on Wigwam Dome: A Classic Trad Climb in Lost Creek Wilderness

Hill's Route on Wigwam Dome presents an absorbing climb along the towering walls of Wigwam Creek within Colorado's Lost Creek Wilderness. This traditional route invites climbers to engage with a massive dihedral system that runs prominently up the left side of the dome. Beginning with a left-leaning crack on the first pitch, the climb quickly sets a deliberate rhythm: 100 feet of steadily gaining ground lead to a natural perch where you can pause and absorb the quiet power of the surrounding granite. From here, the rock tightens into a hand crack, offering a satisfying challenge before arriving at a comfortable belay ledge outfitted with fixed gear.

The second pitch is where Hill's Route asserts its character as a true test of technique and mental focus. Starting deep in a wide crack and chimney, climbers face steep rock and sparse protection options that demand careful gear placement, especially when managing big cams. A key moment unfolds at an offwidth pitch peppered with brush, a section that pushes your body and gear skills. Once past this crux, the angle eases and leads you out onto the face, extending the climb with a demanding yet rewarding stretch to the next ledge—where solid anchor points await.

Beyond this point, the route forks depending on your appetite for adventure. You may choose to bail via chains set on a left crack, ideal for rappelling or setting a toprope. Alternatively, pressing onward leads you to the summit of the dome through two moderate pitches. Traversing a ledge to the right opens up exposure and approach to the final pitch: a challenging roof passage followed by a steep corner where larger protection shines. Along the way, keep an eye out for a pocket glinting with smoky quartz crystals, a subtle reward amid the climb’s physical demands.

Approaching this route requires preparation with a rack emphasizing larger gear, as the crux pitch particularly benefits from cams in the bigger sizes—#3 Big Bro and similar units prove vital here. The granite is solid yet features spots where protection can be tricky to place, underscoring the importance of experience and a well-stocked rack. After completing the climb, descent is straightforward: a walk-off westward combined with some downclimbing to a tree equipped with a sling, where a short rappel can safely lower you to the base.

While the route holds a modest 5.9 rating, the technical offwidth section and gear demands elevate its challenge beyond the grade alone. This climb rewards those who move methodically, stay attentive to gear placements, and appreciate the quiet isolation offered by the Lost Creek Wilderness. With five pitches of varied climbing and a blend of hand cracks, chimneys, and finger cracks, Hill's Route is an excellent choice for climbers seeking a classic trad experience that combines physicality with the natural character of Colorado’s granite domes.

Climber Safety

The offwidth pitch involves brush and limited protection opportunities, creating potential runout sections especially if gear isn’t placed carefully. Downclimbing on descent requires caution; loose rock and exposure near the rappel tree call for deliberate movement.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.

Prepare for brush in the offwidth; expect slower progress on pitch two.

A 60m rope is sufficient for the longest pitches but plan your belay locations carefully.

Walk-off desent to the west includes downclimbing; scout the rappel tree before retreating.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.9, the crux pitch’s offwidth chimneys and tricky protection placements bump this climb’s difficulty noticeably above the grade. It demands solid crack technique and confidence with big gear. For comparison, it feels stiffer than nearby Lost Creek 5.9 routes that emphasize finger cracks, lending a more physical character.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full traditional rack with emphasis on larger cams and a #3 Big Bro for the offwidth crux pitch. Fixed gear exists at key belays to ease transitions.

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Tags

offwidth
chimney
hand crack
multi-pitch
fixed gear
granite
brush
traditional