"Casual Delight Buttress stands out as a rewarding alpine climbing destination in Colorado’s Mt Evans side. With moderate crack climbs framed by breathtaking high-elevation views, it’s a perfect choice for climbers seeking a serene yet engaging wilderness experience."
Rising sharply at an altitude of 12,745 feet, Casual Delight Buttress offers climbers a distinctive west-facing wall that commands attention along the Abyss Lake Trail in Colorado’s high country. This buttress is unmistakable—the signature large left-facing corner anchors its center, setting the scene for a climbing experience that feels both adventurous and refreshingly straightforward. Approaching from the Mt. Evans Road, you’ll find the buttress just south of the gully descent, tucked just beneath the well-known Girlfriend Wall. The terrain here is high alpine, offering crisp mountain air and expansive views of the surrounding Mt. Blue Sky region.
The climbing itself is purposeful and typically modest in scale, with three established routes that highlight the character of this buttress. While the rock type isn’t explicitly defined here, the altitude alone ensures a varied challenge from scratchy friction to crack systems in the corner. On the face left of the main corner, a lone modern bolt suggests an attempt at a sport route, although it seems more like a bail anchor since the line doesn’t continue upward. This sparse bolting reflects the buttress’s quiet character; it’s an area for climbers looking to engage with natural lines and trust in traditional protection where possible.
Classic climbs like Casual Delight (5.8) represent approachable alpine crack climbing that’s ideal for those seeking moderate difficulty with a dose of exposure and altitude. For those chasing harder moves, Daggermouth (5.12) provides a sharper contrast, demanding commitment and technical prowess. These routes capture a slice of the Mt Evans Side climbing vibe—a blend of alpine accessibility mixed with a touch of backcountry solitude.
Access to the area requires backcountry awareness. In 2025, Mt. Blue Sky Road will be closed, pushing climbers to hike in on foot. This adds a layer of adventure to the day, as the approach transforms from a drive-up to a genuine trek. The path up Abyss Lake Trail is scenic but alpine in nature, with mixed terrain that rewards steady footing and solid planning. Hikers and climbers should prepare for weather shifts common at this elevation, including sudden storms and cool temperatures even in summer months.
Timing your visit is key. The west-facing orientation means afternoon sun warms the face, making late mornings into afternoons optimal climbing conditions during the prime summer and early fall seasons. Snow lingers late into spring here, so July through September is generally best for clear routes and stable rock conditions.
Descending is straightforward—downclimbing is possible and described as manageable, reducing the need to rig rappels. The area is quiet enough that route finding and movement feel grounded rather than rushed.
Casual Delight Buttress rewards those who seek a climb with honest alpine tone and essential mountain vibes. It’s a spot for seasoned climbers wanting to add a high-altitude edge to their list, as well as intermediate climbers ready to take in the wide-open Colorado vistas and solid crack lines. While the buttress does not feature extensive sport bolting, the accessible traditional lines and the adventurous approach make it a compelling destination for visitors chasing a quieter, thoughtful alpine climbing experience.
Whether you are lacing up your boots for the first mountain route or stacking gear for a classic, this buttress offers a distinctive slice of Colorado climbing that balances the raw satisfaction of alpine exposure with practical, straightforward climbing challenges. Remember to check for access updates and prepare for a hike-in approach so your day is seamless from trailhead to summit and back.
High elevation and alpine terrain demand respect—check weather forecasts carefully before your trip. The modest bolting means relying primarily on trad gear, so solid gear placement skills and caution on downclimbs are essential. Loose rock can occasionally be found near the base, so a cautious approach is recommended.
Approach on foot due to 2025 Mt. Blue Sky Road closure, adding an extra mile of hiking.
Best climbed mid-summer through early fall for stable weather and fully thawed conditions.
Afternoon sun hits the west-facing wall, so plan climbs for late morning to afternoon.
Downclimbing is straightforward, but always stay alert for loose rock near the base.
Limited fixed protection with one modern bolt possibly used as a bail anchor; traditional gear recommended. Prepare for alpine conditions and bring a rack suitable for crack climbing at moderate altitude.
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