On the Edge of the Abyss stakes its claim high above 13,000 feet in Colorado’s rugged Mt Evans Side, a spellbinding stretch of alpine rock that challenges both mind and muscle. This spot sits in the Abyss Lake Basin, offering climbers a rare blend of high-altitude alpine environment and sharply defined rock features that demand focus and respect. The journey begins with a brisk descent and southward traverse, skirting close to Corner Buttress and the iconic Wind Tower. While doing so, climbers keep eyes peeled for a distinctive ramp and left-facing dihedral - a memorable feature that inspired the aptly named route “Lost in the Abyss.” This route came to life quite by accident, discovered while veering off the intended descent path to Girlfriends. Discovery and exploration here are rewarded with classic lines and a profound sense of wilderness on the edge of Colorado’s high country.

The rock rises to an elevation of 13,009 feet, placing the area well into alpine altitude where crisp mountain air sharpens your senses and bright sunlight dances over weathered stone. The climbing, while not densely populated with routes, offers a focused, almost intimate experience for those seeking alpine adventure beyond the crowds. Most notable among the climbs is Teetering (5.7), a classic rated route that has earned steady praise for its solid pitch and distinct character. Though the rock type isn’t specified, the exposure and setting deliver an undeniable thrill, drawing climbers who crave an invigorating blend of terrain and scenery.

Access to this alpine realm requires planning, especially with recent changes affecting approach trails. Mt. Blue Sky Road, the primary access route, will be closed for the 2025 season, meaning all climbers must get here by foot. This adds an element of wilderness commitment—expect a solid hike underfoot before reaching the climbing base. Patience and preparation will be rewarded by the serenity and solitude of this side of the Mt Evans massif.

Weather here demands attention; given the altitude and seasonal shifts, the prime climbing window is primarily from late spring to early fall. Snow can linger into early summer, and afternoon thunderstorms are common in the high country, so mornings offer the best and safest climbing conditions. Dress in layers and stay vigilant for sudden weather changes.

The descent route, a southbound traverse nearing the Wind Tower, can easily mislead. Climbers new to the area have found themselves “lost in the abyss” when straying from the standard path, underscoring the need for careful route-finding and map familiarity. The terrain’s alpine nature means steep sections and potential loose rock—take time to descend deliberately and consider using trekking poles or climbing gear for tricky passages.

For gear, a traditional rack is advised though details on fixed protection aren’t specified, so climbers should come prepared for varied protection placements. Given the alpine altitude and exposure, bring durable boots, helmets, and plenty of hydration. Although routes are single pitch, the environment rewards measured pacing and respect for the mountain.

On the Edge of the Abyss offers a climbing experience that’s quietly compelling. The atmosphere is contemplative — a place where the solitude of alpine stone meets the thrill of discovery. While it doesn’t boast a sprawling number of routes, those who venture here will find a climbing area that demands your focus, rewards your effort, and leaves you with memories of wind-swept ridges, towering rock, and the vast expanse of Colorado’s high country. Whether you’re a seasoned climber aiming to tick a classic line like Teetering or an adventurous soul drawn by the rugged beauty and challenge of Mt Evans, this remote crag is an alpine jewel worth your careful exploration.