"Old Goat Wall offers isolated alpine granite climbing on the southern face of Mt. Blue Sky, combining technical routes with a challenging approach through tundra. Its premier climb, Kidding Around (5.10d), delivers a high-quality experience in a pristine wilderness setting with a brief but memorable pitching adventure."
Old Goat Wall stands as a rare, rugged jewel along the south face of Mt. Blue Sky (formerly Mount Evans), tucked away roughly 1.25 miles off the main road. This isolated wall is a quiet alpine retreat where quality granite meets adventure - a wall not visible from the road below and surrounded by vast wilderness that demands respect and preparation.
Rising approximately 115 feet and facing slightly south-southeast, the cliff offers sun-drenched climbs until mid-afternoon, with granite features ranging from shallow cracks and flakes to technical face holds. The rock quality is solid and precise, requiring attention and skill to navigate. Currently, the area hosts just one main route, Kidding Around, rated 5.10d with a PG rating and three-star quality, plus a related variation on the far right side of the wall that carries a 5.10a grade. Although only a pitch and a half, the climb delivers a satisfying alpine experience accentuated by the challenge of reaching the wall.
Approaching Old Goat Wall demands an adventurous spirit and solid route-finding. From the parking pullout on the Mt. Blue Sky Road at 13,200 feet elevation, hikers must traverse 1.25 miles arching gently down about 700 feet across open alpine tundra. There is no developed trail here, so navigation hinges on spotting rocky landmarks, the interplay of angled slopes, and GPS coordinates — N 39.57452, W -105.61441 — to find a discreet staging area atop the cliff. The descent to the rope anchors necessitates a short 4th/5th class down-scramble, making the approach as much part of the adventure as the climbing itself.
Access to the base of Kidding Around is mainly by rappelling from top anchors using bolt placements, which preserves the wilderness ethos requiring hand-drilled bolts and careful environmental stewardship. Alternative approaches involve a complex system of sloping ledges and a challenging third/fourth-class ramp, which can be intimidating with packs but offers a potential escape route if conditions worsen.
Seasonal windows for climbing here are tight. The Mt. Blue Sky Road sees opening near Memorial Day, with closure just after Labor Day. Early in the season, snow persists on the approach path, so snowshoes or traction devices are advisable for safety. The wall’s southern exposure means morning climbs can be cool, warming to midday sun before afternoon storms become a threat—though these often arrive without obvious warning until overhead, making early starts and cautious weather assessments critical.
For those drawn to alpine climbs that combine technical granite moves with the thrill of wilderness discovery, Old Goat Wall offers a unique blend. It's not a crag for the casual wanderer but a destination for climbers craving solitude, pristine rock quality, and the quiet focus that a single, standout route demands. Nearby classic climbs include just Kidding Around, but with the area's potential unset on other walls, exploration-minded climbers may find opportunities to develop new lines.
The environment is a protected wilderness area where bolting requires hand drilling, no motorized access is allowed, and low-impact ethics rule. Wildlife precautions and responsible food storage are essential to maintain the fragile alpine ecosystem. With its remote setting, careful planning and self-reliance are critical: the return hike crosses exposed terrain vulnerable to lightning strikes, making an early departure sound safety advice.
Old Goat Wall embodies an alpine journey of precision, patience, and pay-off. The solitude, the brisk mountain air, and the slick granite all sharpen your senses. Whether rappelling into position or topping out on the solid granite, this climb rewards those willing to engage with the complexities of high-altitude adventure in Colorado’s wild heart.
The approach includes a tricky 4th/5th class scramble to reach rappel anchors, which requires care especially when carrying gear. Afternoon storms develop rapidly and lightning risk is elevated due to open exposed terrain on the return hike. Leave early, watch the weather closely, and be prepared to bail if conditions deteriorate.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms and lightning hazards during the exposed 1-hour return hike.
Bring GPS or detailed maps as no official trail leads across the alpine tundra to the cliff.
Prepare for a significant approach with a 700-foot descent across broken terrain.
Respect wilderness regulations — use hand drills only for bolting and secure all food to protect wildlife.
Access requires a short 4th/5th class downclimb to the bolt anchors used for rappelling into the start of the route. Bolting is restricted to hand drilling only, preserving wilderness standards. Snow gear such as snowshoes or traction devices may be necessary early season due to lingering snow on the tundra approach.
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