"Codependence Day delivers a three-pitch trad climb on the granite of Bush League Buttress, blending crack systems and technical moves that challenge and reward in equal measure. Ideal for climbers looking to step beyond packed routes, it offers solid protection and a dynamic wilderness setting."
Codependence Day on Bush League Buttress offers a grounded but engaging trad climbing experience for those ready to navigate the West Slope’s rugged granite. Located in the Lost Creek Wilderness, this three-pitch route blends varied moves, crack systems, and ledge travel to keep climbers rooted in classic Colorado adventure. The climb begins about 20 feet down and to the right of the more trafficked User Friendly route, directly under a prominent, overhanging offwidth crack that challenges climbers just beyond Codependence Day’s limits.
Pitch one sets the tone with a steady upward trek that leans left, following fractured cracks that provide decent but not abundant gear placements. Sparse protection demands careful placements from small to medium cams up to 4 inches, building confidence on the somewhat discontinuous features. The pitch moves into a right-facing corner crack, where the rock tightens and provides a solid stance for the first belay. This 5.9 section offers a satisfying scratch beneath a crisp blue Colorado sky, with the granite acquiring a warm glow as the sun shifts.
The second pitch veers upward and right, joining a more sustained crack line out on the face before arriving at a spacious ledge. This pitch drops slightly in difficulty to 5.8, but the face climbing requires solid crack technique and clear route reading. The ledge belay is a satisfying midpoint, offering a moments’ rest and a chance to soak in the surrounding pines that frame the buttress. The quiet wilderness and distant hum of the South Platte River underscore the solitude away from busier crags.
Pitch three carries climbers along the ledge to merge with the third pitch of the adjacent Bush League route. This section returns to sustained crack and corner movements peppered with challenging moves, holding at 5.8 but demanding mindfulness on footwork and hand jams. The upward path weaves through the granite’s natural angles, requiring dexterity and steady nerves on the tricky passages. The original vision for the climb aimed to power through an overhanging flaring offwidth crack above pitch two but proved to be a threshold far beyond 5.9, rating closer to 5.11, and was wisely sidestepped in favor of the current line.
Approach and descent options offer practical flexibility: climbers can rappel from trees to the right after the third pitch or follow a gully on the left. The gully is rated a class 4 scramble escalating to low 5th moves near its conclusion. Setting a retrievable sling and rope here is prudent. This route feels a notch more interesting than User Friendly, especially in the first two pitches, with steady challenges and solid protection opportunities.
For those craving trad climbing that balances skill-building with a dose of Colorado’s wild charm, Codependence Day stands as a quietly rewarding option. The evolving crack puzzles and careful placements cultivate focused engagement, making it an ideal trip for seasoned climbers honing their trad chops in a serene natural setting.
The descent requires careful navigation—either a couple of rappels from trees on the right or a moderately exposed gully scramble on the left. The gully involves some potentially loose rock and light climbing near the bottom, so use a retrievable sling and take care when downclimbing.
Start the route about 20 feet down and right of the User Friendly base to find Codependence Day’s first pitch.
Use moderate cams up to 4 inches; the protection is adequate but not abundant, so focus on secure placements.
Be prepared for a class 4 to low 5th scramble on the descent gully left of the climb if you choose to walk off.
Avoid the overhanging flaring offwidth above pitch two—it's a stiff 5.11 and not part of the established route.
Bring a full trad rack with cams ranging from small sizes up to 4 inches to protect discontinuous cracks and corners; expect some sparse gear placements requiring careful selection and confidence in gear placements.
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