"Clear-cut Boulder offers steep, finely textured sandstone bouldering in a young forest clearing near Roseburg, Oregon. With classic problems like East Face Arete and Monkey Wrench Gang, this spot demands focus and respect for its regulated access."
Located in a young forest clearing, Clear-cut Boulder stands out as an inviting challenge for boulderers eager to test their skills on steep, finely grained sandstone. This imposing formation, roughly the size of a house and rising about 15 feet, offers a striking contrast to its surrounding stand of young trees. The texture of the Tyee sandstone here is distinctive, providing both friction and complexity to every hold. The boulder problems available range in difficulty, with notable classics like East Face Arete (V3) offering a solid challenge for intermediate climbers, while the striking Monkey Wrench Gang (V11) attracts seasoned senders seeking their next project. Though currently modest in development, the area’s grit calls for renewed attention and conservation efforts to keep this gem climbing-ready.
The approach to Clear-cut Boulder requires careful planning. Access is subject to a permit system, mandatory because this boulder rests on private timberland managed by Weyerhaeuser. Walk-in permits become available annually starting June 23rd and cost $100 for the season running August 1 through July 23 the following year. Prospective visitors should prioritize respect and abide by the permit rules to help maintain access long-term. Parking is limited and parking near the nearby school bus turnaround on Touchstone Road is prohibited. Being mindful of neighbors and the fragile access situation ensures continued enjoyment for climbers and aids in ongoing negotiations for improved recreational leases.
At an elevation of 1,345 feet, Clear-cut Boulder occupies a unique corner of Southwest Oregon’s climbing landscape. It’s situated close enough to Roseburg to make day trips feasible but remote enough to feel like a genuine escape into nature. Climbers can expect solid footholds and steep walls that reward precise technique over brute force. Conditions vary seasonally; spring through fall offers the most stable weather windows. Precipitation can be frequent in the winter months, so targeting drier warmer periods maximizes climbing time and preserves the rock’s integrity.
Gear requirements for Clear-cut Boulder are straightforward but demanding. Given the steepness and fine texture of the sandstone, climbers will benefit from multiple crash pads to cover potential falls on uneven terrain. The rock quality is generally solid but requires a cautious eye for loose holds, especially on less trafficked lines. Because the area is a young, regenerating forest, maintaining a minimal impact approach is essential—pack out what you bring and tread lightly on the undergrowth.
Beyond the climbing challenges, Clear-cut Boulder rewards visitors with a quiet, contemplative environment that honors your effort and focus. The surrounding trees filter sunlight in the morning and afternoon, creating a calm atmosphere that feels like a well-earned respite from busier crags. After a full day adjusting to the sandstone’s nuances and tackling its testy problems, climbers leave with more than just a workout—they carry a sense of stewardship for a climbing spot with potential to grow.
For those with an eye toward travel and adventure, Clear-cut Boulder represents a slice of climbing culture still in its infancy—a spot waiting for climbers to rediscover it and invest in its future. With classic lines like East Face Arete and Monkey Wrench Gang defining its character, it invites climbers of various abilities to embrace the challenge and contribute to the area's revitalization. Practical preparation combined with a respectful attitude will not only enhance your experience but help this area maintain its place on the regional climbing map for years to come.
Falls can be serious given the steep, 15-foot high walls and limited flat landing zones. Multiple crash pads and a spotter are essential. Watch for loose holds due to the area's limited maintenance and ensure respectful use of fragile young forest surroundings.
Secure your walk-in permit, which runs annually from August to July, and purchase early starting June 23.
Park responsibly on Touchstone Road to avoid blocking school bus access and respect neighbors.
Bring multiple crash pads due to the steep nature and height of the boulder.
Plan your visit between spring and early fall to avoid frequent precipitation.
Access requires a walk-in permit from Weyerhaeuser's Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm. Parking must avoid blocking the school bus turnaround. Multiple crash pads recommended due to steep boulder walls and fall zones.
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