Hidden within the rugged timberlands of Southwest Oregon, Land of Oz offers climbers an intriguing blend of steep walls, crack systems, and pocketed rock that old-school adventurers have long sought out. This area is perched at an elevation of 2,284 feet, within the Callahans—a remote but rewarding climbing destination just west of Roseburg, Idaho. Before a recent clearcut reshaped the approach, Land of Oz provided a secluded setting for climbers chasing variety and technical sequences. Today, the easiest access route takes you along the upper ridge road, then descending straight to the lower face, requiring attention to navigation and respect for the surrounding private timberland.

Land of Oz features eight established routes spanning 75 to 100 feet tall, with difficulties running from 5.8 up to 5.10d. This range caters mostly to intermediate climbers ready to engage with cracks that demand finger and hand jams, alongside delicate sequences through small, figure-sized huecos that pepper the face. Though the grade spectrum isn’t overly broad, the climbs here are appreciated for their practical challenge and exposure—rewarding those with solid technique and route-reading skills.

The rock has a distinct character that beckons experienced climbers searching for quality crack climbing with a twist. Classic routes like "Beautiful Wickedness" (5.11a), "Flying Monkeys" (5.10d), and "Twisted Rainbow" (5.10d) stand as reliable benchmarks for those familiar with western Oregon’s climbing DNA. While the area doesn’t boast an extensive route list, its classic lines embody the feel of old-school climbing — technical, bold, and stripped of any unnecessary embellishment. This is terrain suited for hands-on climbers who value steady progress over flashy moves.

As you plan your visit, note that Land of Oz lies within private timberland managed by Weyerhaeuser, and access requires a walk-in permit issued annually. Permit sales begin on June 23 at 7 pm, with a $100 fee covering the term from August 1 through July 23 of the following year. This system conserves the climbing privilege in a sensitive area, so abide by all access rules: park considerately without blocking driveways, especially the school bus turnaround on Touchstone Road, and tread lightly to uphold future access for the climbing community.

Getting to the wall involves following the upper ridge road which skirts the recently clearcut areas, then descending directly to the crag’s base. The approach demands alertness as the terrain is steep and visibility reduced by sparse forest regrowth. GPS coordinates and further navigation details can be found in Rock Climbing Western Oregon Vol. 2: Umpqua (2007).

Timing your climb is critical as the wall’s orientation exposes it to sun for the majority of the day — ideal for spring through early fall when weather is stable and temperatures moderate. Rain can linger in Oregon’s coastal climate, so watching local conditions and aiming for clear days maximizes comfort and safety.

Descent from Land of Oz is typically a straightforward walk off the face via the same route used for the approach, easing the pack down through cleared ridges and open forest. No technical rappel is needed, but caution is advised descending the steep and uneven slope.

Gear up with a solid rack aimed at crack protection: finger-sized cams and nuts will cover most placements. Given the wall’s pocketed texture, climbers won’t rely on bolts or fixed anchors extensively here. This area calls for self-sufficient trad climbing skills and a confident mindset navigating sometimes sparse pro.

In essence, Land of Oz is a demanding yet rewarding spot combining the raw appeal of Oregon’s timber country with precise crack and pocket climbing challenges. Respect for the land and permit system keeps this gem open for future adventurers eager to test their skills on classic lines in a setting few climbing areas can match for character and quiet persistence.