"Inca Rock offers an exciting escape for climbers seeking multi-pitch sport routes on a sandstone spire in Idaho. With straightforward access through second-growth forest and two memorable ascents, this spot appeals to adventurous climbers who appreciate quiet approach trails and solid climbing."
Rising boldly from the forested landscape, Inca Rock stands as a focused destination for climbers chasing the experience of multi-pitch sport routes on sandstone in Idaho. This slender spire demands both respect and attention, promising a climb where every move counts and the journey up reveals a gradual layering of both challenge and natural surroundings.
Access to Inca Rock starts at the Touchstone gate — from here, a trail veers northwest into a recently clear-cut area before quickly slipping into dense second-growth forest. The terrain here shifts noticeably, gaining elevation as the path winds for about half a mile to meet the Baseline Trail. Turning left, you continue southwest until the base of the rock itself appears, marked clearly by two distinct multi-pitch sport routes starting at the ground.
The climbing itself is defined by these longer sport routes that ascend the sandstone formation’s faces. While the rock’s texture demands careful foot placement and steady chalk use, climbers will appreciate the solid bolts pacing the pitches, offering both protection and confidence as they move upward. Those in search of classic challenges can look for Gallows of San Palo (rated 5.10a) and Rincon (rated 5.9), both receiving solid three-star ratings that suggest rewarding and well-traveled lines.
Weather conditions here are a key consideration for planning your visit. Seasonal variations can affect the climb, with drier months in summer and early fall providing the most reliable conditions. Given the nature of sandstone, avoiding damp or rainy days will ensure better friction and safer holds.
Important to note is the permit system due to the private timberland setting. Access requires a walk-in permit that covers non-motorized entry to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, where Inca Rock sits alongside other climbing areas in southwest Oregon’s Callahans region. Permits become available starting June 23 each year and cost $100 for a term that runs from August 1 to July 23 the next year. When parking along Touchstone Road, climbers should respect local neighbor access and avoid blocking turnaround zones, maintaining good community relations for continued access.
Inca Rock’s atmosphere is one of focused adventure, where the approach trail filters out distractions and the climb itself invites concentration on technique and movement. The multi-pitch nature means climbers can experience a mix of exposure and quiet forest views as they ascend, making it a rewarding choice for those who appreciate a balance of scenic immersion and climbing rigor.
While the routes are equipped with sport protection, bring standard sport climbing gear and doubles of quickdraws for the longest pitches. The approaches through forest and clear-cuts highlight the area’s mixed management, reminding climbers that this is a special spot requiring thoughtful navigation and respect for the landscape.
For descent, climbers should be prepared for standard top-rope or rappel options from anchors established at the summit of the routes. Always assess anchor quality and gear condition before descending, and carry enough gear to rappel safely back to the base.
Inca Rock fits well within the greater Callahans area’s climbing network, known for its quiet woods and varied rock types. It offers a unique blend of sport climbing adventure, relative solitude, and an encounter with Idaho’s often-overlooked sandstone profile. Whether you are combing through classic lines or enjoying the focus of these two multi-pitch routes, the experience here is sure to sharpen your climbing skills and reward your effort with satisfying movement and well-earned views.
The sandstone here requires attentive footwork and cautious movement, especially when wet. The trail has quick elevation gain and limited bailout points, so prepare for a steady approach and a technical rappel descent. Always check anchor gear before using and carry backup devices for descending safely.
Obtain a walk-in permit ahead of time starting June 23, as access requires this permit due to private land status.
Park thoughtfully on Touchstone Road — avoid blocking the school bus turnaround to maintain good relations.
Approach trail gains elevation quickly through second-growth forest; wear sturdy shoes and plan for a 15-20 minute hike.
Check weather carefully — sandstone climbs best when dry; avoid rainy or damp conditions to maintain good friction.
Standard sport climbing rack recommended with multiple quickdraws for multi-pitch protection. Fixed bolts provide reliable protection on sandstone. Bring gear for rappelling and a double rack of quickdraws for longer pitches.
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