One Hit Wonder Buttress - Idaho's Signature Crack Climbing Experience

Coos Bay, Idaho
crack climbing
traditional
single pitch
walk-in permit
private land access
Idaho climbing
technical cracks
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
Single pitch
Protected Place
Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"One Hit Wonder Buttress in Idaho offers climbers a unique challenge with its twin crack systems joining high on the wall, delivering technical crack climbing in a rugged, recently cleared timberland setting. Access requires a walk-in permit on private land, but the straightforward approach and solid classic routes like Boot Scoot Boogie and Bust A Move make it a rewarding destination for trad enthusiasts."

One Hit Wonder Buttress - Idaho's Signature Crack Climbing Experience

One Hit Wonder Buttress stands out in Idaho’s climbing landscape with its unmistakable twin crack systems that part ways just ten feet apart before merging high above at 60 to 70 feet. This rock formation offers a distinctive focal point between the neighboring crags of Area 51 and One Time Chimney, providing climbers a uniquely textured experience amid a raw and recently altered landscape. The clearing of the forest in the surrounding area has opened up a straightforward approach from the south ridge, making access more direct than before the Baseline Trail was lost to logging.

The climbing here is defined by four solid routes described in Rock Climbing Western Oregon 2007, pages 163 to 166, each showcasing these signature cracks that test hand jams and crack technique while enjoying an exposed face. While the classic climbs Boot Scoot Boogie (5.10a), Bust A Move (5.11a), and Electric Avenue (5.10c) provide a compelling challenge rated around 5.10 to 5.11, the crag’s vibe is one of focused, technical crack climbing—the sort that rewards precision and grit rather than brute force or sport climbing power moves.

At 2,371 feet of elevation, One Hit Wonder Buttress sits comfortably in mid-mountain terrain, offering a blend of forested trails and open rock faces to soak in the region’s calm, natural beauty. The approach is now a simple, direct hike down from the ridge, bypassing the former Baseline Trail that has vanished under a clearcut zone. This change requires climbers to prepare for a slightly different route-finding experience, but the payoff is quick access and less tree clutter on the way in.

Access is legally regulated through a permit system owing to the climbing area’s location on private timberland, managed by Weyerhaeuser. Obtaining a walk-in permit is mandatory and crucial for maintaining trust and the possibility of future access improvements. Permits go on sale annually starting June 23rd, covering the entire year from August through July. Climbers should park responsibly on Touchstone Road, taking care not to block local turnaround points, especially the school bus area, and always be respectful of neighbors to avoid jeopardizing access.

For gear, expect to bring a rack well suited to crack climbing with solid protection placements along the crack systems. The rock quality here demands precise gear placement and an understanding of crack climbing mechanics to move smoothly across the pitches. The routes typically top out around 60 to 70 feet, fitting neatly into single-pitch trad climbing that leaves plenty of daylight for several attempts or a leisurely day of climbing.

Weather patterns in the region lean towards a mostly dry climate during the prime climbing season extending from spring through early fall. Climbers can anticipate comfortable conditions for hands-on, engaging finger and hand crack work. Make sure to time your visit when precipitation is low, as wet cracks and slick rock reduce friction and increase risk.

Descent from the climbs is straightforward, generally involving a scramble or walk-off down slope rather than technical rappels. This ease of descent adds to the overall appeal for climbers looking for a manageable day trip with classic crack lines and a no-fuss return.

One Hit Wonder Buttress is a focused destination for climbers who appreciate the challenge and rhythm of crack climbing rather than extensive route variety or sport gym style. Its place tucked between other well-known crags gives it a distinct character—quiet but charged with potential. When you arrive, expect to engage your mental game alongside your hands and feet as you navigate cracks that demand respect, patience, and technical finesse. Whether you are looking to dial in your crack technique or enjoy a less crowded climbing spot with solid traditional lines, this formation offers a crisp, compelling climbing experience capped with scenic Idaho mountain vibes.

Classic climbs to seek out here include Boot Scoot Boogie (5.10a), Bust A Move (5.11a), and Electric Avenue (5.10c), all tested routes that reward climbers with well-protected moves and the satisfaction of climbing solid, clean cracks surrounded by quiet wilderness. Because the area remains less developed with just four established lines, it’s a perfect fit for those who want quality over quantity and the chance to experience climbing in a focused, purposeful setting.

Climber Safety

Due to private land status, strict adherence to permit rules is essential; also approach with caution as the recent clearcut has altered trail conditions. The rock requires careful gear placement and crack protection, so avoid rushing and ensure solid pro. Weather can change quickly, leaving cracks slick and dangerous—check forecasts and avoid climbing when wet.

Area Details

TypeTrad
PitchesSingle pitch
Length70 feet

Local Tips

A walk-in permit is mandatory—purchase starting June 23rd to ensure access.

Approach from the south ridge for the clearest path after recent clearcutting.

Park considerately on Touchstone Road without blocking local turnarounds.

Best climbed in dry weather; avoid rainy days that leave cracks slippery and dangerous.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The climbs at One Hit Wonder Buttress range from 5.10a to 5.11a, focusing heavily on crack climbing technique rather than endurance or high-intensity sport moves. The grading feels honest and consistent for finger- to hand-sized cracks, making it a solid mid-grade trad challenge. These routes offer a balanced difficulty not typically sandbagged or overrated, ideal for climbers honing crack skills and preferring technical climbing to pure athleticism.

Gear Requirements

Expect to bring a standard trad rack focused on protecting finger to hand-sized cracks. The twin crack systems provide solid gear placements, so a set of cams covering a range of sizes will serve well. No fixed anchors mentioned, so be prepared for self-protection. The rock calls for precise placements rather than bulky gear.

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Tags

crack climbing
traditional
single pitch
walk-in permit
private land access
Idaho climbing
technical cracks