"The West Side area offers a newer, steeper face within California’s Fairview Valley, featuring a solid spread of climbs from 5.6 up to 5.11. Just minutes from the parking lot, this quiet sector invites climbers seeking varied routes and a straightforward approach."
Situated to the right of the Bloody Thumb Area in Fairview Valley, the West Side introduces a distinctive shift in character with its rock subtly steeper than what most climbers expect from Old Chicago. This area provides a fresh angle for those familiar with the region’s more gently sloping faces, delivering routes that challenge from beginner 5.6 grades all the way up to more demanding 5.11 climbs.
Arrival is simple. From the parking area, a well-marked trail ascending the hillside guides you steadily upwards. When you hit the fork, resist the left turn and follow the switchbacks straight ahead. This easy hike of under 10 minutes sets the tone—getting you quickly into the climbing without the heavy approach burdens that sometimes accompany desert crags.
At an elevation near 3,736 feet, the environment blends the dusty clarity of California’s high desert with subtle hints of local flora along the trail. This balance of rugged terrain and accessible climbing appeals to those who want to mix practical adventure with manageable logistics.
The roster of classic climbs here includes titles like Blood Stains (5.10c), prized for its moderate challenge and solid praise, and Happy Trails (5.6), a favorite for warming up or introducing new climbers to the area. Routes like Raindance (5.10b) and Spiral Staircase (5.8) add variety, each reflecting the character of the rock—the texture firm and reliable, yet demanding enough to hold your attention through every move.
Though the overall count is modest, the spread of grades means there’s something for many skill levels. The steadiness of the rock’s angle combined with the clear approach means climbers can plan half-day trips or quick sessions with confidence, making the West Side a strategic choice for those wanting quality routes with minimal fuss.
The local climbing community regards the ratings as mostly accurate — neither sandbagged nor unusually soft — providing a trustworthy experience for climbers gauging their limits. The steeper angles here contrast nicely with the nearby Old Chicago climbs, giving a nice addition to the overall Fairview Valley climbing experience.
Access and safety are straightforward but worth noting. The trail is well-traveled and easy to follow, but given the desert environment, prepare for sun exposure and bring plenty of water. The relatively short approach means you can time your climbs to catch mornings or late afternoons for cooler conditions.
Despite the area’s moderate height, routes are single pitch, making rope management simple and descent uncomplicated. Most climbers walk off following the trail back to the lot, avoiding complicated rappels or extended downclimbs.
In sum, the West Side shines as a practical, inviting destination carved from the familiar desert landscape of Fairview Valley. It welcomes both newcomers and seasoned climbers who appreciate moderately challenging routes, a quick approach, and a backdrop of quiet desert stillness. If you’re planning a trip to the Apple Valley region or looking to explore a less crowded face near Old Chicago, the West Side is a deliberate, rewarding choice that balances adventure with ease of access.
Although the approach is short and the trail well-maintained, be prepared for desert temperature swings and sun exposure. Hydration is critical, especially in warmer months. The rock is generally sound, but as always, inspect anchors and fixed gear before climbing.
Follow the trail straight at the fork—do not take the left turn toward Bloody Thumb.
Aim for early morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid peak sun exposure.
Bring at least two liters of water per person due to dry desert conditions.
Watch your footing on approach as the switchbacks can be loose in spots.
Routes range from 5.6 to 5.11 with a spread of grades, all accessed via a well-defined trail less than 10 minutes from the parking area near the Bloody Thumb Area. The rock is steeper than typical Old Chicago routes, with single-pitch climbs suitable for sport climbing.
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