Old Chicago stands as a commanding northeast-facing cliff in the quiet, far corners of Fairview Valley, California. This vast rock formation offers climbers a welcoming mix of single-pitch and multi-pitch routes that sit comfortably in moderate grades. The stone here is typically solid, making it a trusted destination for those who appreciate reliable rock under their hands and feet.

Approaching Old Chicago requires a bit of intentional navigation. From the main artery of Chicago Road, it’s about a three-mile drive toward the edge of the valley where a spur road branches off to the right. That road ends in a loop where climbers park just shy of blocking the turnaround, all beneath the looming face of the formation. This straightforward access balances well with the remote feel of the area, a perfect mix of adventure and ease.

Climbing here shifts the focus away from high-risk extremes and toward smooth execution on well-protected lines. The routes range generally around 5.7, a friendly grade that challenges technique without overwhelming beginners. Three standouts, noted by climbers, include The Classic 5.7, Skyway to Happiness, and Red Dyke — all marked by solid rock and varying exposure that subtly tests your mental game as much as your physical skill.

At 3,707 feet elevation, the area offers crisp air and a slight reprieve from the desert heat. Weather can be a key factor; the best times are generally spring and fall when temperatures remain moderate and the sun’s angle plays gently on the cliff face. Because Old Chicago faces northeast, mornings and early afternoons bring shade that helps preserve grip and comfort as temperatures climb later in the day.

The environment around Old Chicago channels a stripped-down, high desert vibe with stretches of open scrub punctuated by distant views that pull your gaze out toward the horizon. This remoteness enhances the sense of stepping off the beaten path—the silence and space giving climbers room to focus and connect with the climb itself.

Gear-wise, the climbs rely heavily on moderate protection because the routes' moderate grades mean most climbers will find a mix of natural gear placements along with some fixed anchors. Expect to bring a rack that can handle a solid variety of cams and nuts. Given the typical route length and the smooth rock faces, a standard rack with extra mid-size cams and some slings will serve well. Most climbs here don’t demand specialized gear beyond that, but keeping your rack prepared for some multi-pitch maneuvering is advised.

Descent typically involves walking off around the backside or downclimbing sections where the terrain softens into manageable slopes and scrub. Stay alert to loose rock especially near the base and on approach trails, as the arid climate can make some footing less stable.

Old Chicago’s climbing experience offers something for both those getting comfortable on the rock and seasoned climbers looking for a sturdy day out in a quiet part of California’s desert highlands. It’s an invitation to move freely on well-established routes, with enough variety to stretch technique without pushing into extreme grades — a space where focus meets flow and solid stone supports every move.

To plan your visit, target spring or fall for the best weather, bring an adaptable rack, and prepare for an approach that balances remoteness with accessibility. Old Chicago rewards climbers who respect its quiet power and solid history with routes that feel just right for building skill and soaking in open desert atmosphere.