Lower East Side Climbing at Old Chicago - Easy Access and Evening Sessions

Apple Valley, California
easy approach
shaded walls
evening climbs
moderate routes
desert climbing
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Fairview Valley
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lower East Side at Old Chicago presents easy access to a selection of moderate climbs with a short approach and a shaded wall ideal for summer evening sessions. Located in California’s High Desert, this area offers approachable routes alongside a classic 5.7 called Skyway to Happiness."

Lower East Side Climbing at Old Chicago - Easy Access and Evening Sessions

The Lower East Side on the eastern flank of Old Chicago offers climbers a straightforward but enjoyable climbing experience set at an elevation of 3,631 feet. This collection of crags is known for its easy access and a selection of routes that range from simple to moderately challenging, making it ideal for climbers seeking low-key outings without sacrificing quality. The rock faces here do not tower tremendously but deliver enough variety to keep a casual session interesting, especially for those who want to fit climbing into a busy day.

What sets this area apart is the unbeatable convenience of the approach. The trailhead is located just off Chicago Road, about three miles before the road ends. After passing the spur road leading to the main face, a right turn onto a loop road brings you right beneath the eastern walls. Parking is available along the loop’s edge—just be sure to avoid blocking the turnaround. This short walk to the wall means climbers can maximize their time on the rock, perfect for those aiming to squeeze in an afternoon or evening climb.

Timing your session here is aided by the natural shade that falls over the Lower East Side walls starting around 5 p.m. during the summer months. This feature transforms the area into a great destination for post-work or late afternoon climbs when the sun’s heat begins to retreat. The moderate climate and shaded walls mean that evening sessions are not just possible but actually quite comfortable, adding to the area’s appeal during warmer seasons.

The routes here don’t demand intense expertise but reward attentiveness and steady technique. One standout classic climb you won't want to miss is Skyway to Happiness, rated at 5.7 and enjoying a solid 3.5-star rating. Though the route catalog is modest, the vibe of accessible adventure combined with a care-free approach and decent rock quality make the Lower East Side a welcoming spot. Climbers can enjoy the solid stance of the rock without the crowds typical of more famous destinations.

While the specific rock type and detailed route grades beyond the classic remain sparse, the overall feel is one of easy-going desert climbing. The proximity to Apple Valley and the broader High Desert region also offers opportunities to explore surrounding climbing sectors once you’re done here.

For protection, standard gear suited to easy to moderate routes is appropriate, as the area’s climbs rarely push into technical or aid territory. The formations provide a secure hold profile, but as with all climbing in the desert, it’s wise to bring a full rack to accommodate variable crack sizes and to anticipate changes if attempting other nearby climbs.

The descent from the climbs is simple due to the modest height of the walls—walk-offs dominate here, making downclimbing or easy trails back to your vehicle the means of return. This ease further enhances the feasibility of fitting in quick sessions.

In summary, the Lower East Side at Old Chicago merges laid-back desert climbing with practical facility. It is an efficient, shaded spot to climb after a day in the sun or for those who appreciate a quick approach coupled with routes that challenge without intimidating. Whether you’re new to the area or carving out an evening escape, this pocket of the High Desert delivers a straightforward, welcoming experience that balances adventure and ease.

Climber Safety

Despite the easy access and moderate routes, climbers should remain cautious of loose rock and ensure no vehicles block the turnaround during parking. The desert environment means sun exposure and dehydration are potential risks—stay hydrated and be prepared for temperature swings in the evening.

Area Details

TypeSport
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Park carefully along the loop road without blocking the turnaround.

Plan your climb later in the afternoon to benefit from the wall’s shade by 5 p.m. during summer.

Bring plenty of water, as this is desert terrain with little natural water source.

Keep an eye on weather forecasts—while generally mild, sudden desert afternoon storms can occur.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:With a top classic rated at 5.7, Lower East Side sits comfortably at the easier-to-moderate end of the climbing spectrum. The routes are accessible and tend to feel true to grade, avoiding the sandbagging reputation found in some desert areas. The approachable nature makes it a solid option for climbers building confidence and looking to enjoy moderate sport climbing in a relaxed setting.

Gear Requirements

Standard sport gear is sufficient for the easy to moderate routes here; expect to use draws for fixed bolts. No specialized equipment is necessary given the approachable route difficulties.

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Tags

easy approach
shaded walls
evening climbs
moderate routes
desert climbing