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Well Hungover at Staunton Rocks: A Compact Trad Challenge

Denver, Colorado United States
roof crack
hand jam
single pitch
technical moves
South Platte
Staunton Rocks
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Well Hungover
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Well Hungover offers a focused trad climb at Staunton Rocks with an engaging roof crack and technical moves packed into a single 80-foot pitch. Ideal for climbers seeking a dynamic challenge with solid protection and a straightforward descent."

Well Hungover at Staunton Rocks: A Compact Trad Challenge

Carved into the rugged expanse of Staunton Rocks, Well Hungover presents a tightly packed trad challenge that rewards climbers with a satisfying variety of moves across a single, 80-foot pitch. Situated just right of the notable Hemingway Wall on Meadow Dome, the route demands precision as you start beneath a small roof, spotting a cairn that marks your entry. The climb begins as you ascend a right-facing small open book that guides you toward a lone pine, perched about 20 feet high. Texture and hold variety compel a deliberate pace here, setting the tone for the crux that awaits.

The route's defining feature is the overhanging roof, where a handful of strenuous 5.8- moves ask for both commitment and controlled power. Unlike standard slab routes, this roof crack requires a mandatory hand-sized protection piece, ensuring gear placement dovetails seamlessly with the moves. Following the roof, the crack opens up, allowing you to relax just enough before reaching a clean, secure belay equipped with #3 and #4 Camalot-sized protection—perfect for managing your next steps or prepping for descent.

Surrounding this route is the broader Staunton State Park, a playground offering sweeping views of South Platte’s rugged canyons and a quiet atmosphere that invites full focus on each hold and jam. Approaching the climb means moving through open terrain with sparse vegetation, the pine tree acting as a natural landmark to orient your path. Gear recommendations emphasize bringing a single rack with an extra 0.5 Camalot and a hand-sized piece for the roof crack, highlighting the route’s technical protection needs without overburdening climbers.

Aside from the climbing experience, the approach is short and straightforward, with enough solid footing to avoid unnecessary scrambling. After the climb, a brief 30-foot scramble left from the belay leads you to a large slung block and a full-strength rap ring anchored near the prominent pine — a tidy descent preventing any awkward downclimbs.

Well Hungover demands respect for its brief but potent sequence. Its 5.8- rating may sound approachable, yet the moves through the roof crack add a punch that’s less forgiving for those unprepared. Tackling this route means blending patience with strength, planning gear placements early, and reading the natural features as both obstacles and guides. If your day calls for a concise, engaging climb away from crowds with a mix of technical crack work and a unique roof section, Well Hungover delivers a memorable ride in the heart of Colorado’s Staunton Rocks.

Climber Safety

The roof crack requires confident gear placement with a hand-sized cam, and the slab above can be slick when wet. Ensure your hand pieces are well seated, and exercise caution during the 30-foot scramble to the rappel station to avoid loose rock or unstable footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Locate the cairn below the small roof to find the start easily.

Bring a hand-sized cam for secure placements in the roof crack.

Scramble climber's left from the belay to reach the rappel anchor safely.

Approach in dry conditions to ensure stable footing on the slab and avoid slippery patches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.8-, the route includes a short sequence of moves through an overhanging roof that injects an intensity beyond the grade's typical range. The crux is compact and demands purposeful gear placements alongside precise footwork—making this climb feel slightly stiffer than the rating alone might suggest.

Gear Requirements

A single rack with an extra 0.5 Camalot and a mandatory hand-sized piece for the roof crack will cover protection needs efficiently without excess weight.

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Tags

roof crack
hand jam
single pitch
technical moves
South Platte
Staunton Rocks