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Watts Left Over: A Steady Trad Warm-Up in Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
slabby terrain
single pitch
moderate
classic Colorado trad
quick approach
Length: 125 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Watts Left Over
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Watts Left Over is a quiet trad gem on the left edge of Physical Crag, offering a smooth balance of slab and crack climbing. This moderate line is an ideal warm-up packed with technical finger locks and approachable protection in the heart of Eldorado Canyon."

Watts Left Over: A Steady Trad Warm-Up in Eldorado Canyon

Tucked into the far left flank of Physical Crag, Watts Left Over offers a rare chance to engage a quiet, moderate trad line that has lingered under the radar for decades. The climb begins on an approachable slabby face, marked by scattered cracks that invite steady footwork and crisp hand placements. As you gain height, the route shifts into a more vertical section dominated by a left-facing corner. Here, the rock tightens into a finger crack that demands precise finger locks and steady confidence—this short, technical crux near the upper third defines the challenge without overwhelming.

Watts Left Over presents an honest 5.9- difficulty, feeling comfortably within reach for seasoned climbers looking to warm up or those ready to test their trad skills on a classic Colorado sandstone slab. The climbing is straightforward but requires mindful movement to avoid dislodging loose rock, especially for the second on the rope. The line’s relative quiet is an asset: it’s likely unclimbed or at least undocumented in local guidebooks until recently, granting a sense of discovery away from the busier climbs in Eldorado.

Measured at approximately 125 feet, this single-pitch route extends beyond the shorter lengths noted in some older references. Its position at the left-most edge of Physical Crag means the approach is simple and quick, allowing climbers to conserve energy for the ascent itself. Once at the top, you have a choice of walking off east or west along ledges and scramble paths, making descent intuitive and safe.

Protection here is manageable with a light rack, focusing on finger-sized gear to secure the crux section safely. The rock’s moderate nature and the occasional presence of loose holds emphasize caution, particularly in downward protection placements and communication between partners.

For those exploring Eldorado Canyon’s varied trad offerings, Watts Left Over stands out as a steady, approachable climb perfect for honing crack and slab techniques while soaking in the dramatic canyon atmosphere. The vertical walls breathe with the rush of the nearby South Boulder Creek, and afternoon light casts shifting shadows that bring both warmth and contrast to the sandstone face. Timing your climb in mid-morning or late afternoon can balance shade and sunlight, optimizing grip and comfort through warmer months.

This route isn’t about pounding grades or flash—it's a deliberate, precise journey up clean crack systems framed by the raw beauty of Eldorado’s rugged cliffs. Whether you’re setting out to warm up or quietly claim a lesser-known line, Watts Left Over promises satisfaction through steady climbing, thoughtful gear placements, and a connection to one of Colorado’s cherished climbing playgrounds.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is a concern above the crux finger crack section; climbers should wear helmets and exercise caution when leading and cleaning. The route’s moderate slab character invites careful footing. Double-check all gear placements and watch for narrow ledges during the descent scramble.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length125 feet

Local Tips

Approach is straightforward; expect a short hike with well-marked trails leading to Physical Crag’s leftmost edge.

Place finger-sized cams carefully near the crux to ensure secure protection and avoid loose rock.

Communicate clearly with your second about potential rockfall hazards on the upper corner section.

Plan your climb for mornings or late afternoons to benefit from the best light and cooler temperatures.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating on Watts Left Over feels reliable and approachable, with a distinct crux finger crack near the top that adds a compact but technical challenge. The grade is on the softer side for 5.9, making this an accessible option for climbers advancing beyond beginner slab climbs. Compared to other moderate lines in Eldorado, it stands out for its clean but slightly dirty seams and classic trad feel.

Gear Requirements

A light rack with a focus on finger-sized protection is essential for securing the crux finger crack section. Standard trad gear covers the rest of the moderate slab and corners.

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Tags

finger crack
slabby terrain
single pitch
moderate
classic Colorado trad
quick approach