The Bastille North Face – Eldorado Canyon's Legendary Vertical Challenge

Boulder, Colorado
finger crack
shaded
roadside access
good for summer
historic
multi-pitch
mental cruxes
exposed positions
classic lines
trad climbing
Length: 350 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Bastille North Face looms as one of Eldorado Canyon's legendary trad walls, drawing both seasoned climbers and those seeking to step up their trad game. With a concentration of classic, demanding lines and a rich climbing history, this shaded prow delivers technical challenges in a roadside setting. Test your skills on storied routes where Colorado climbing lore was born."

The Bastille North Face – Eldorado Canyon's Legendary Vertical Challenge

Step up to the North Face of The Bastille and you'll immediately understand why this crag commands such fierce loyalty among Colorado climbers. Rising above South Boulder Creek in Eldorado Canyon State Park, The Bastille anchors the state's climbing lore—a steep, cool prow of stone packed with demanding, storied lines. Generations of climbers have come here to measure themselves against a wall loaded with both physical and mental tests. Legends like Layton Kor, Pat Ament, and Ray Northcutt all cut their teeth here, and The Bastille continues to serve as a true proving ground for aspiring and accomplished trad climbers alike.

Compact at 350 feet, the Bastille's North Face rises abruptly from the roadside, shaded and imposing for most of the day. The routes here are technical and thoughtful; they reward experience while testing those who crave more than just steep pulling. Classic lines started going up in the 1950s—sometimes with a healthy side of bravado, like the infamous Bastille Crack ascent said to be celebrated with champagne. Today, the face is littered with storied classics: The Bastille Crack (5.7), Werk Supp (5.9+), Outer Space (5.10b/c), Northcutt Start (5.10d), Wide Country (5.11a), and Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12c/d). Each has its own reputation, but collectively, they give the wall its character—a proving ground for climbers who've moved beyond easy terrain and are ready to challenge themselves on vertical, technical stone.

History breathes from every feature here. The upper pitches of Bastille Crack were freed in 1957, setting a regional standard, but it was Northcutt’s bold freeing of the Northcutt Start at 5.10d that arguably marked a new era for American free climbing grades. The Bastille was even once called Chimney Rock and served as an anchor for Ivy Baldwin's daring slackline crossings high above the canyon. While that cable from those stunts still sits atop the summit—a mute witness to past feats—today’s climbers continue the tradition with their own modern adventures on sharp end and solo.

This north face sees little for beginners—areas elsewhere in Eldo might suit newer climbers better. But for the intermediate pushing into higher grades, or the advanced climbing looking for a worthy challenge, few places deliver so much history and variety in such an accessible package. Expect intricately protected trad climbing, exposed stances, and mental puzzles stacked throughout pitches. The shade stays with you, which can be a gift mid-summer, but cold and wind can have teeth any time of year. Early and late in the day, you may have the entire face to yourself save for the sound of rushing water and the distant ring of hardware echoing up the cliff.

Getting here barely counts as an approach—just minutes from car to base, across the bridge and uphill, the Bastille’s shadow dominates. Watch for climbers on nearly every platform and ledge, and the energy around the base is often electric. Still, keep your head up, as the trail and streamside access can be slick and crowded during prime weekends.

Descents off the Bastille favor a walk-off: follow an exposed break along the north side near the top, reaching a third-class ramp that drops to the Fowler Trail. From there, the well-trod West Face hiking trail (with a little more easy scrambling at its base) returns you to the start. Only a handful of routes offer rappel options—most climbers will want to be comfortable with a bit of exposed downclimbing and the route-finding necessary for this exit.

Respect the wild neighbors—seasonal raptor closures often affect climbing in Eldorado Canyon. Always check the latest updates before your trip; closures change annually to help protect nesting golden eagles and other wildlife. With the area’s popularity, you’re rarely alone, but that same crowd energy has made the Bastille a center for trad climbing culture.

If you want to challenge yourself where legends have climbed, come ready to engage with stone and history alike. The Bastille's North Face stands ready, and every ascent joins the ongoing story of Colorado climbing.

Climber Safety

Many routes have ledges, exposed stances, and runout sections: always assess your gear placements and be comfortable building natural anchors. Watch for loosened rocks and be vigilant on descents, particularly in the early season or after rain.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length350 feet

Local Tips

Arrive early to snag parking, especially on weekends when the canyon fills fast.

Study descent beta ahead of time—the walk-off isn't difficult but requires easy route finding and some exposed terrain.

Watch for seasonal raptor closures and always check state park updates before your trip.

Summer brings shade, but shoulder seasons can feel chilly—bring a wind layer for belays on the north face.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades on the Bastille's North Face are known for being honest to stout—this is no beginner’s wall, and even the moderate classics will keep you alert and engaged throughout. The 5.7s here feel harder than their designation on many gym or sport crags, demanding real technique and composure. Compared to other Front Range trad areas, Bastille’s ratings uphold Eldorado’s reputation for unflinching sandbag.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack with extra small to medium cams for the thin, technical crack systems. Many routes require thoughtful protection placements and gear-anchored belays. Fixed hardware is present on some classic lines but expect to build your own anchors, especially on variations and linkups. Double-check the condition of fixed pro and bring slings for the occasional tree.

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Tags

finger crack
shaded
roadside access
good for summer
historic
multi-pitch
mental cruxes
exposed positions
classic lines
trad climbing