Redgarden Wall – Below the Lower Ramp: Seclusion and Adventure on Eldorado’s Unsung Stone

Boulder, Colorado
solitude
trad climbing
adventure
obscure
loose rock
approach adventure
rap descents
wildlife closures
eldorado canyon
Length: 150–300 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
single pitch and short multi-pitch
Protected Place
Eldorado Canyon State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Uncrowded and distinctly wild, Redgarden Wall’s lower territory below the Lower Ramp invites climbers to step away from the beaten path and discover rarely traveled stone. Expect adventurous trad lines, solitude, and the unpredictable charm that defines classic Eldorado exploration."

Redgarden Wall – Below the Lower Ramp: Seclusion and Adventure on Eldorado’s Unsung Stone

If you hunger for quiet adventure and untapped possibilities, Redgarden Wall’s lower sector beneath the Lower Ramp just might answer your call. Set within the iconic canyons of Eldorado and rising at over 6,000 feet above Boulder, this section reads almost like a hidden chapter in the storied book of Colorado climbing. Here, fractured, adventurous stone and obscure lines offer experiences that challenge both your skills and your sense of exploration.

Redgarden – Below the Lower Ramp never plays host to crowds. Instead, if you lace up here, you’re joining a smaller tribe of locals and route-seekers willing to trade popularity for solitude and a dash of the unknown. The rock itself toggles between decent to good in sections, with certain patches showing signs of age — blocks can be loose, cracks sometimes dubious. Prudence demands a helmet, not just for your own sake but for anyone following below. There’s an unpredictability you need to respect to climb here responsibly.

The Lower Ramp itself — a landmark with a distinctly Flatiron-like profile — signals where the high drama of the Roof Routes transitions into this more secretive territory. Walk along the base and you’ll feel it: the ambience shifts, the canyon’s noise drops to a hush, and the cliffs above look rough-cut and seldom touched. Many climbers, especially those visiting for the classics in upper Redgarden, skip this entire zone. And that’s exactly what gives it value for climbers who prefer offbeat objectives over guidebook stars.

Still, quality awaits those who seek it. Routes like Vertical Smile (5.7) and Pickpocket (5.8, VS or TR) can be the perfect warm-ups. Slimy Spoon (5.8 PG-13) and Mr. Natural (5.8+) offer engaging movement and a generous dose of Eldo spice. If pushing your limit on unpredictable rock excites you, the middle grades provide memory-making mileage, with climbs such as Unknown (5.10c+), Breakfast of Champions (5.11a S), or Suparete (5.11a/b), which has garnered near-classic status for the area. Those with a taste for the hard and the esoteric might someday aspire to lines like Captain Crunch (5.13a) or the seldom-ticked Rough Roof (5.12b S/VS), immortalized briefly in Peter Mortimer’s 'Front Range Freaks.'

There’s technical variety here: steep faces, slim cracks, the occasional odd roof, and features reminiscent of the entire Redgarden formation, albeit in a wilder, rougher package. Yet it’s worth remembering that many routes remain obscure, and even the better-known lines can be hard to locate. Expect bushwhacking for the likes of Vertical Smile and the need for wayfinding skills across uneven terrain.

Classic lines found here include Mr. Natural (5.8), Breakfast Of Champions (5.11), Suparete (5.11b), and Captain Crunch (5.13a), among others — each bringing its own flavor of challenge, exposure, and adventure, albeit without fame in the greater canon of Redgarden classics.

Access involves a scenic approach, beginning at Eldorado Canyon’s east parking lot. Hike to the bridge, cross the creek, and follow the trail along Whale’s Tail. At the fork, take the left, arriving soon at the Pickpocket Wall. From there, you can wander west along the Redgarden Trail — a well-trodden, but uneven 3rd class path — that skirts the wall’s wild lower flanks. Take time to scope your descent options: rappelling or downclimbing from the Lower Ramp and connecting ledges often play into route logistics here, so knowing your rappels and walk-offs is key.

As with much of Eldorado, there are crucial access and wildlife considerations. Seasonal raptor closures occur annually from February 1 to July 31 (sometimes ending early if the birds fledge). Stay updated with state park advisories — routes, trails, or entire cliff bands can go off-limits to protect falcon or golden eagle nests. Recent years have also seen storm and rockfall damage affect upper Redgarden trail segments. Always double-check online conditions and closure status before your day begins.

Redgarden – Below Lower Ramp is rewarding for those craving unsung stone and silent approaches. Protect yourself and your partners — the complex geology and loose rock call for sharp judgment and thoughtful pro. Bring a flexible rack and be ready to improvise. For the climber who values solitude, exploration, and the satisfaction of unlocking off-the-radar goals, this wild tributary of Eldorado climbing is quietly spectacular.

Climber Safety

Loose and fractured stone is common — always wear a helmet and test every hold. Spotting your partner carefully at belays and selecting solid stances is critical. Watch for falling debris, especially on busy days above.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchessingle pitch and short multi-pitch
Length150–300 feet

Local Tips

A helmet is essential — loose rock and small trundles are common.

Download a map and have detailed route descriptions to avoid getting lost on obscure approaches.

Double-check seasonal nesting closures before heading out — park updates frequently affect access.

Plan your descent in advance; rappels and downclimbs can be complex and variable.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades in this sector are relatively honest but the area's fractured rock and obscure lines can make climbs feel spicier than their ratings suggest. Expect Eldorado’s typical need for creative protection and route-finding. Compared to the more-traveled upper Redgarden classics, climbs here see less traffic and demand more from your headgame.

Gear Requirements

Bring a flexible trad rack — cams and nuts for variable placements. Some routes can be top-roped but be prepared for loose blocks. Helmets are strongly recommended due to fractured, sometimes unstable rock.

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Tags

solitude
trad climbing
adventure
obscure
loose rock
approach adventure
rap descents
wildlife closures
eldorado canyon