"The Flakes in Eldorado Canyon combines powerful liebacking with delicate face climbing in a swift, one-pitch trad challenge. Set against Boulder’s rugged sandstone walls, it offers a compact dose of adventure with thoughtfully placed protection and striking views."
Eldorado Canyon State Park offers countless climbing adventures framed by rugged sandstone cliffs and sweeping views of the Boulder Valley. Among the gems carved into its storied walls stands The Flakes, a concise yet demanding one-pitch trad climb that challenges climbers with two distinct styles of movement over a compact vertical face. Approaching the route, you’ll find it positioned just north and uphill from a broad cement slab by the South Boulder Creek—an unmistakable landmark guiding you toward the base. The climb begins immediately to the right of a cluster of boulders, where giant left-facing flakes jut outward, inviting you to test liebacking skills and finger jams.
The lower section demands sustained pumpy liebacking on these flakes, engaging your forearms through a sequence that edges close to the deck. Protection in this section focuses on mid-sized cams placed carefully to support the extended moves needed to navigate the overhanging plates. After conquering the dynamic bouldery crux, the route transitions into a noticeably different rhythm: the upper portion shifts to a delicate balance-oriented face climb. Here, thin edges and subtle features require body tension and precise footwork. A long reach—just a few feet from the bolted anchors—provides a final technical challenge, testing your ability to maintain composure on smaller holds.
Despite the varied climbing styles stacked into this route, protection is thoughtful and well-planned. The upper half calls for two draws, ideally including one with an extended runner to minimize rope drag as you traverse right before pushing straight up to the anchors. The belayer must stay alert during this traverse, maintaining smooth rope management to avoid drawbacks that could complicate the crux moves above. When you reach the anchors, reliable bolted gear ensures a hassle-free rappel descent.
The Flakes is an exemplary route for trad climbers seeking a short, intense experience with a mix of physical and technical moves. The granite’s grain and the surrounding environment combine for a sensory climb: the rough texture under your fingers, the shifting sunlight casting shadows on the flakes, and the constant murmur of South Boulder Creek daring you forward. Approaching the base takes roughly 10 minutes from Eldorado’s main trailhead, winding over packed dirt and sandstone rubble—wear sturdy shoes and carry enough water, as Colorado’s afternoon sun can quickly sap energy. Climbing in the cooler morning hours improves friction and comfort, reducing the chance of slipping on warm rock.
For those who want a quick, rewarding trad climb with enough challenge to sharpen skills without committing hours, The Flakes delivers. Its distinct sequence of moves keeps the experience fresh, and its setting amid Eldorado’s dramatic cliffs offers a stirring backdrop. Before you rappel, glance back to appreciate the imposing wall that just pushed your limits, then plan your next move in this valley of vertical adventures.
Be mindful of rope drag especially during the rightward traverse above the flakes; maintaining tension and proper gear placement here prevents judging errors. The rock is generally solid but approach slippery terrain near the river with caution after rain.
Start early for cooler rock and better friction.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle delicate face moves.
Bring a long runner to avoid rope drag on the traverse.
Check creek flow levels during spring runoff as access paths can be slippery.
Mid-sized cams work best on the lower flakes, with two draws essential for the upper face section to reduce rope drag during the traverse. Bolted anchors assure a smooth top-out and rappel.
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