"Road to Nowhere stands out on the Sunshine Wall with its approachable mix of trad and sport climbing. This two-pitch route delivers steady 5.8 moves over variable rock, rewarding climbers who bring both skill and careful gear management."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Naturita and Paradox Valley, the Road to Nowhere route offers climbers a straightforward yet satisfying challenge on the Sunshine Wall’s leftmost slab. This two-pitch route stretches roughly 200 feet, blending modest technical moves with a mix of natural and fixed protection. The approach through Desert River Road whispers subtle previews of the rock that awaits: warm sandstone with occasional traces of wear, hinting at both history and exposure.
Pitch one invites you right off the gate to grapple with terrain that shifts beneath your fingertips. Starting beside the route known as Sandstoner’s Highway, you navigate left and up through sections that call for careful footwork and precise gear placements. The rock quality can vary—expect some spots that test your ability to read holds and protect well with a combination of nuts, wires, and small cams supplementing four bolts along the pitch. The moves register around 5.8, but the unpredictable texture means staying alert pays off. Looping around a solitary pine tree near the belay anchors, this pitch plants you securely 100 feet above the ledge.
Pitch two pushes you upward and then angles right, following a line marked by approximately eleven bolts. The majority of this pitch remains close to 5.8 difficulty, with occasional bulges that prompt a brief increase in effort. Though an intermediate belay exists, most climbers will find it manageable in one continuous push. The top-out exposes you to sweeping views of the canyon and the broad desert plateau beyond, where the sharp shapes of Paradox Valley stretch out like a well-worn playground for explorers. Rapelling three times using a 60-meter rope brings you safely back down, but carrying a 70-meter rope offers the option to combine the first two rappels and save time, with a preferable anchor available at Sandstoner’s ledge.
Protection-wise, this route demands a versatile rack: a good set of nuts and wires, complemented by medium-sized cams and reliable draw placements on the bolted sections. Rock here can challenge your placements, so thoughtful gear selection and confidence in your protection skills will make a significant difference in a clean, controlled ascent.
Approach is straightforward though requires some care. Climbers can expect an easy hike on well-marked dirt roads leading to a rocky base, with roughly 20 to 30 minutes to the start. Terrain tends to be mixed sand and solid stone slabs, making steady hiking boots a wise choice. Time your climb to avoid the midday sun—morning light illuminates the wall gently, while afternoons can bring heat, making the rock surface more abrasive on skin and chalk alike.
All said, Road to Nowhere offers a balanced climb for those wanting to mix trad and sport styles without the stress of extreme difficulty or heavy crowds. It holds a quiet charm for moderate climbers eager to sharpen gear skills while soaking in the sweeping Colorado desert vistas. Whether you’re gearing up after a long approach or finding your rhythm in tricky placements, this route offers a resilient invitation to explore the Sunshine Wall’s more subtle challenges.
Be alert to some sections of loose or questionable rock on pitch one; carefully test your placements and avoid heavy falls. The descent requires multiple rappels—double-check anchor points before committing.
Start climbing early to avoid intense afternoon heat on the wall.
Bring a 70-meter rope if you want to combine the first two rappels into one longer descent.
Check your gear thoroughly; some rock sections require careful placements for small cams and wires.
Use the intermediate belay on pitch two only if the group needs a break, as it’s usually unnecessary.
Essential rack includes medium wires, nuts, and a few medium cams to complement the fixed bolts—this combo helps navigate the varied protection opportunities on both pitches.
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