Mears Peak stands quietly northwest of Telluride, Colorado, inviting climbers who crave solitude and adventure far from the crowds. Its remote location means fewer footprints, but more commitment to navigating loose rock and exposed scrambling. The climb begins from the Iron Mountain Trail, itself a lesser-known offshoot of the Whipple Mountain Trail accessed via Last Dollar Road above Telluride Airport. From here, the southeast face offers the easiest approach — a scramble over scree and through scattered towers that demands steady footing and keen awareness.

Visually, Mears Peak is striking from Dallas Divide to the north along Highway 62, crowned with a rounded, symmetrical M-shaped summit ridge. The east peak claims the summit’s high point, while the south view holds Iron Mountain and Campbell Peak as imposing sentinels until you gain enough height on the Telluride Ski Area slopes. The approach reflects the mountain’s character: raw, jagged, and honestly challenging.

Rock quality here varies sharply. The west side presents dark gray blocky rock, which feels somewhat reliable but still demands caution. The east side is a different story — red, shale-like scree that can shift beneath your hands, requiring deliberate movement to avoid slips. The ridgeline east of the summit throws in several vertical pitch steps where careful circumnavigation is essential, involving fourth-class scrambles or very loose fifth-class climbing where protection is limited or unavailable. The west ridgeline offers easier third-class moves but remains exposed.

Getting to Mears Peak means choosing your challenge: from Telluride to the south, a steady scramble from Ruffner Mountain (13,003 feet) on the west, or for the more experienced, a long, exposed fifth-class route racing up from Peak 13,441 on the east. Another option is a technical but unprotected scramble along the North Ridge accessed off the Box Factory Park Trailhead on West Dallas Creek Road from Highway 62. Each approach underscores the peak’s demanding, solitary nature.

The classic climb here is the North Face Couloir, also called Wet 'n' Wild (WI2), a mixed ice climb rated with a solid 3.5-star reputation. While the route count in this area is limited, the quality of climbing and the wild setting make Mears Peak a compelling destination for alpine purists looking to push themselves.

Climbers should prepare for rapidly changing weather typical of the San Juan Mountains. Summer through early fall is the prime season, though afternoon thunderstorms often roll in, and snow can linger on higher ridges well into late summer. Carrying appropriate gear for loose terrain and variable protection is essential. The area’s rock demands cautious movement — tri-cams and a versatile rack will serve well for navigating cracks and uncertain holds. Expect little fixed gear, so be ready to gear up each pitch independently.

The descent requires as much focus as the ascent. From the summit, carefully retracing your steps along the ridgelines is safest, especially given the loose scree on the east. Rappelling opportunities are limited, so downclimbing remains the main option though it can be intimidating for the less experienced.

Mears Peak’s isolation and variable rock make it a destination best approached with respect and preparation. The panoramic views from the top reward the effort, carving out moments of quiet triumph above the rugged contours of the Northern San Juans. It’s not a climb for the casual day tripper but a true alpine adventure for those willing to commit to a wild, exposed summit experience. Whether you're drawn by its distinctive shape or the precision of the Wet 'n' Wild couloir, Mears Peak offers a raw and rewarding challenge well worth the journey.