The Northern San Juan Traverses lie high in Colorado’s alpine wilderness, just beyond the town of Telluride, where raw mountain terrain tests even seasoned climbers seeking an unfiltered alpine experience. The climbs here aren’t polished granite faces but a patchwork of rock varying wildly in color and reliability. Choss is the rule rather than the exception, with the most vertical stretches usually offering more stable rock and chances for protection. Still, making the climb demands vigilance—every hold and piece of pro must be trialed. The best technique for moving is to push in and down carefully, avoiding any pulling that risks loosening fragile rock.

Reaching the traverses involves different approaches depending on the section. The western end, Section A, can be accessed by a walk or drive up Tomboy Road from Telluride all the way to Imogene Pass, sitting at 13,114 feet. Sections B and C require summiting nearby peaks — the formidable Mount Emma at 13,581 feet or Campbell Peak at 13,213 feet respectively — then proceeding along the skyline ridges. Maps are essential, ideally highly detailed, because the pathways are complex with many bail options. The traverse can also be shortened or extended with route choices, but thorough preparation is key before venturing far.

On the rock, expect about an hour to cover each peak once on the ridge. The skyline itself is steep and jagged, composed of gendarmes you will generally climb overau cheval rather than navigate around, preserving your line and elevation. Snow cornices cling into fall on shaded north-facing slopes, providing both a visual and physical reminder of the alpine environment’s enduring winter grip.

Classic routes include climbs of Campbell to Emma—rated 5.8—and Campbell to Hayden, a 5.5, each offering a solid mix of adventure and challenge. The Emma/Gilpin/Sneffels ski tour offers an established alpine experience favored by those who want a scenic mix of climbing and ski touring. Imogene to Emma is another classic route rated 5.5 that remains a favorite for traversers in the area. These routes embody the spirit of the Northern San Juan’s climbing culture: bold, unpredictable, and rewarding for those who come prepared.

Safety here is vital; helmets and scree gaiters are a must due to frequent loose rock and scree slopes. The rock sometimes freezes solid in winter, improving stability, but this can also make ice and snow crossings treacherous. The terrain is high and exposed, so understanding weather patterns is critical—storms can arrive suddenly, and snow often persists late into the season.

The approach trails from Telluride weave through rugged alpine landscapes, offering stunning views of the San Juan Mountains’ wild expanse. The rock itself is not classic Colorado granite but a gritty, rough mix that reflects the area’s geologic turmoil. Although the rock quality demands caution, successful climbs offer a visceral connection to high alpine climbing that is increasingly rare.

Descent options are abundant, but many involve careful downclimbing or walking off around the ridgeline. Rappelling is possible but rarely required if you stick to the main traverses and follow established bail routes. It’s recommended to pack light yet comprehensive gear, including a rack suited for uncertain protection and to carry a solid helmet to guard against rockfall.

For climbers seeking to extend their season, summer is the prime time to visit with drier conditions and manageable snow on the ridges. Fall brings cooler temperatures and lingering cornices, which add a strong alpine element but also greater objective hazards.

The Northern San Juan Traverses deliver a climbing experience that is as much about route finding, strategy, and mountain sense as it is about technical skill. The rawness of its terrain and the rewards of its skyline adventures mark it as one of Colorado’s edgier alpine climbing destinations, perfect for those ready to test their judgment alongside their climbing ability.