"Reaper provides a compelling trad variation to the classic Ruper route on Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall. With moderate 5.8 PG13 difficulty, an alluring crack system, and a steep lichen-covered face, it offers a fresh challenge for climbers ready to navigate subtle protection and sustained movement."
Reaper offers an engaging trad experience in Eldorado Canyon’s renowned Redgarden Wall sector. This one-pitch route branches off from the more common upper sections of 'Ruper,' presenting climbers with a fresh line that challenges both technique and route-finding. Starting roughly 30 feet before the iconic leftward traverse beneath the roof marked by old pitons, Reaper pulls you onto a steep wall where smooth lichen and scattered hueco pockets create an inviting yet demanding surface. The climb flows upward and left for 40 to 45 feet, rewarding those who seek out the faint incipient crack running along the face. This crack accommodates smaller cams, requiring patience and good gear judgment to protect effectively.
Beyond the crack system, the route transitions into the upper dihedral of the adjacent climb 'Alice,' where a few weathered pitons hint at the route’s history and provide additional security. The finish is notably more satisfying than the standard Ruper, offering a more direct and continuous sequence that keeps the rhythm moving. The rock’s texture here shifts, allowing hands and feet to test friction on spots where pebbles and subtle holds appear in generous pockets.
Eldorado Canyon’s Redgarden Wall is a favored playground for trad climbers who appreciate moderate difficulties paired with classic Colorado sandstone features. The wall projects sun warmth in the afternoon, making late spring through early fall the optimal climbing window. The approach is straightforward—short and steep—threading through mixed terrain carved by boulder fields and scrub oak, with the nearby city of Boulder only a short drive away for easy access and post-climb meals.
Though the route comes with a 5.8 PG13 rating, it demands respect for its protection challenges and occasional loose stone. Bringing a full standard rack ensures you can confidently place cams in the intermittent crack, while spotting old pins and pitons becomes part of the route’s charm and beta. The protection requires vigilance, as placements are sometimes subtle and the lichen can mask holds, so steady footwork and focused hand placements are essential.
Climbers should anticipate a classic Eldorado experience balancing exposure, technical climbing, and the wilderness atmosphere that defines this storied canyon. Reaper is ideal for those seeking to expand their traditional climbing repertoire with a route that blends a classic setting, moderate difficulty, and thoughtful gear management.
Be aware of loose rock and lichen that can reduce friction or mask holds. Protection placements are intermittent and may be thin, so double-check each placement’s solidness. The roof area near the start has old pitons—avoid relying solely on these as some may be corroded.
Approach via the Redgarden Wall trailhead; it’s a short, steep hike of about 10 minutes from the parking area.
Late morning to afternoon offers optimal sun exposure; avoid windy spring mornings when the gain in warmth is welcome.
Watch for lichen-covered rock spots—clean foot placements before weighting them.
Bring a rack with small to medium cams (e.g., .3 to #2 Camalot range) to suit the thin crack system.
Standard trad rack recommended with cams sized for incipient cracks. Old pitons mark the upper dihedral, but rely mainly on your gear placements for protection. Lichen can obscure holds, so careful gear placements are crucial.
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