"Discover a cleaner, trad-focused alternative on the Power and Lies route at Child Free Zone. This 40-foot crack climb offers solid protection and an accessible 5.8 rating, perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack technique in Golden’s distinctive sandstone."
Power and Lies Trad Variation offers a sharp, straightforward climb that gives you a fresh angle on the established routes around North Table Mountain’s Golden Cliffs. This one-pitch route, approximately 40 feet long, invites climbers to take the crack line left of the classic bolt ladder, carving a direct and satisfying trad challenge. The climb begins with a keen crack running up a gully, inviting fingers and hands to work their way through tight seams and subtle edges. As you progress, the climb threads just to the left of Power and Lies’ bolts, maintaining a consistent line that feels natural and robust without unnecessary complication.
This variation stands out because it balances accessible difficulty with engaging technical moves, rated a solid 5.8 — approachable for those comfortable on traditional gear but looking to sharpen their crack skills. The crack itself is not a conventional chimney, sitting right of a large, off-width squeeze chimney, giving the climb a distinctive feel without resorting to awkward body jams. At the top, you meet the last bolt of Power and Lies, offering a convenient clip and a secure spot to place a small cam for protection before moving to the anchors.
Approaching the climb is easy from the Child Free Zone sector at Golden Cliffs. The path winds through rocky outcrops and sparse vegetation, with an elevation that rewards you with open views of Golden’s rugged landscape. The rock here is solid, generally sound sandstone with a coarse texture that offers dependable friction and positive holds.
Protection is straightforward but deliberate: a well-chosen single rack suffices, with a #4 BD cam handy for the upper placements — although not strictly required. The gear placements along the crack are reliable, giving confidence while maintaining a clean, minimalist rack. Climbing shoes with moderate stiffness help maintain precision on the crack’s edges, while finger tape can protect against sharp sandstone seams. Plan your ascent during morning or late afternoon hours for optimal sun exposure and cooler temperatures, particularly in warmer months.
This route suits traditional climbers who appreciate a no-frills line requiring both solid hands-on crack technique and smart gear placement. It’s an ideal outing for those visiting the Golden Cliffs area who want a brief but rewarding lead, with minimal approach hassle and a sense of stepping off the beaten path without sacrificing quality or safety. The moderate length means you can easily pair this climb with others in the Child Free Zone, building a day of focused trad climbing grounded in the unique character of North Table’s sandstone.
Note, the descent follows a standard walk-off that’s accessible just beyond the anchors — no rappelling necessary, though staying aware of loose rock near the top is advised. Local weather can shift quickly, so bring adequate layers and hydration to manage exposure. Whether it’s your first trad lead in Golden or a refreshing variation on a classic route, Power and Lies Trad Variation stands ready to test your technique and earn your summit with straightforward, clean climbing.
While the crack provides solid placements, some sections near the top involve smaller cams placed carefully. Loose rock near the anchors requires attention during belay setup and descent. Monitor weather changes closely, as sandstone can become slick when wet.
Approach via the marked trail to Child Free Zone for a 10-minute walk from the parking area.
Morning or late afternoon climbs offer the best sun and cooler rock temperatures.
Scout the crack for gear placements and plan to use smaller cams efficiently; a #4 BD can protect tricky spots near the top.
Prepare for a straightforward walk-off descent; no rappel gear required but watch for loose stones near anchors.
Bring a well-selected single rack focusing on smaller cams, with a #4 BD for upper placements. Shoes with moderate stiffness and finger tape are recommended for comfort and precision.
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