Secret Waterfall Ice Climbing - Windy Saddle, Colorado

Golden, Colorado, Colorado
WI3
ice climbing
Colorado
remote
rappel descent
single pitch
windy saddle
winter climb
Length: 160 ft
Type: Ice
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Windy Saddle’s Secret Waterfall offers an elusive ice climbing challenge just off Lookout Mountain Road. Hidden from main viewpoints, this striking icefall delivers a remote, intense experience for those willing to navigate a rugged approach and demanding descent."

Secret Waterfall Ice Climbing - Windy Saddle, Colorado

Just a few miles up Lookout Mountain Road—also known as the Lariat Loop—lies a hidden gem for ice climbers: the Secret Waterfall, often called the Windy Saddle Ice Flow. From the parking lot at the Saddle, the ice doesn’t immediately reveal itself. It’s tucked away on the west side, out of sight from the main overlook and the highway below. The best place to catch a glimpse is actually from across the canyon at the Stumbling Block. This secrecy adds to the thrill of the climb, rewarding those willing to seek it out with solitude and pristine ice.

Climbing the Secret Waterfall is not for the faint-hearted. The area sits at around 6,500 feet elevation, nestled within Clear Creek Canyon’s colder microclimate that reliably sustains this winter flow. The ice consistently attracts climbers chasing WI3 routes featuring moderate but obliging ice. Classic climbs by the same name, rated WI3 and endorsed with solid 3.5-star reputations, hint at dependable quality for those seeking playful yet technically engaging pitches.

Approaches demand preparation and respect for both terrain and conditions. There are three main ways in, each with distinct challenges. The approach from below—across the frozen river—involves an arduous 1,000-foot ascent, not without danger when ice conditions shift or water flows below the surface. Hiking down from Windy Saddle above requires stamina and careful route-finding as it’s a steep, physical 20- to 30-minute trek down drainage lines that already see partial ice coverage in climb season. Expect a 45- to 60-minute descent after your climb with rappels necessary for a safe exit. The third, less obvious option is to drop off the Beaver Brook trail near a rock outcropping to circle behind the buttress, a slightly longer approach with its own set of terrain puzzles.

This area's remote nature and approach difficulty shape the experience — it’s quiet, often untouched, and deeply rewarding. Weather can be tricky but typically stays cold enough for stable ice through winter into early spring. The climb attracts a mix of climbers drawn to its isolation and reliability. The technical grade of WI3 offers steady ice with enough challenge to hone skills without the overbearing risks of more severe flows. While the rock type is unspecified, the focus here is the ice itself—a shimmering ribbon demanding careful technique and full concentration.

Safety cannot be overstated. Choose your approach wisely, especially avoiding the river crossing when ice is unstable. Descent requires rappels from trees positioned near the icefall’s base: one anchor about 160 feet down and an intermediate stance halfway. Take time to familiarize yourself with these rappel stations and bring appropriate gear for snow and ice conditions. The steepness of the terrain and remoteness mean self-sufficiency is critical.

Though the climbing area is modest in scale, its allure lies in the purity of ice climbing — the crisp Colorado air, the echo of ice tools on frozen waterfalls, and the satisfaction of standing beneath vast, gleaming verticals that retreat out of sight from the usual crowds. Whether you’re eyeing the Secret Waterfall’s classic WI3 pitches or simply looking for a winter adventure steeped in rugged scenery and patient discovery, Windy Saddle delivers a memorable outing.

For those willing to brave the intrepid approach and robust conditions, Secret Waterfall offers a rewarding puzzle. Prepare thoroughly, pack for ice climbing essentials, and experience one of Colorado’s quieter winter ice climbing treasures.

Climber Safety

The approach includes hazardous river crossings when the water is frozen but still unstable. Descending requires rappelling from trees with anchors approximately 160 feet from the ice base. Make sure to fully assess ice integrity before attempting the climb and descent, as conditions can vary rapidly.

Area Details

TypeIce
Pitchessingle pitch
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Avoid approaching from the frozen river unless you are confident in ice safety and river conditions.

Descent takes approximately 45 to 60 minutes and involves rappelling—prepare your rope and anchors accordingly.

The best vantage point to spot the ice flow is from the Stumbling Block across the canyon, as it’s not visible from the parking lot or highway.

When hiking down from Windy Saddle, expect strenuous terrain and partial ice on the drainage route during climb season.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Secret Waterfall consistently rates at WI3, offering solid moderate ice climbing that feels accessible to those with basic ice skills. The ratings tend toward an honest representation of the climb’s difficulty — the routes have a reputation for being straightforward but demanding respect for approach and descent hazards. Compared to other Colorado ice climbs, Windy Saddle’s flow holds well in stable cold periods and provides a dependable progression for intermediate climbers looking to sharpen their technique on solid vertical ice.

Gear Requirements

Rappelling from trees is essential, with anchors at roughly 160 feet and an intermediate stance at 100 feet. Approaches vary from difficult river crossings to steep drainages with partial ice coverage, requiring full ice climbing gear and careful route planning.

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Tags

WI3
ice climbing
Colorado
remote
rappel descent
single pitch
windy saddle
winter climb