"A compact yet rewarding 5.8 trad climb in Colorado’s Spanish Peaks, Pay Before You Pump navigates a sharp face to an engaging dihedral. Ideal for trad climbers seeking a concise outing with solid protection and dynamic moves."
Pay Before You Pump offers a concise but compelling trad climb tucked within the rugged expanse of the Spanish Peaks in Southern Colorado. The climb begins a short twenty feet left of the popular Mini Thins route, setting off on a straightforward face that quickly challenges you with its subtle moves and practical protections. The route ascends about 50 feet, leading to a distinct triangular block that marks the transition to a right-facing dihedral—this feature guides your hands and feet into a rhythm, demanding steady technique and attention to gear placements. The ultimate satisfaction of this climb lies in its blend of manageable difficulty, making it an ideal pick for climbers sharpening their trad skills or seeking a relaxed day outdoors without sacrificing adventure.
The environment around this climb shapes the experience with a raw, natural energy. The stone walls rise sharply under open skies, while the crisp mountain air carries the faint sounds of the wild beyond the crag. Though the climb is short, the quality of rock and the careful sequence of moves invite a focused effort that rewards each hand jam and foot smear. Climbers come prepared with gear up to three inches to secure good protection spots, especially for the belay, which requires thoughtful placement to ensure safety.
After topping out, descending is straightforward yet demands attention: a rightward traverse leads to a reliable rappel anchor shared with the Mini Thins and Truck Stop Crank routes. Alternatively, a third-class downclimb heads south from the summit block if you prefer to walk off. Planning your descent carefully is crucial, especially when the approach trails present uneven footing and shifting weather patterns that can add challenges beyond the rock itself.
This single-pitch 5.8 route combines the thrill of traditional climbing with approachable technical challenges and a dose of Colorado’s wild mountain spirit. It’s a perfect fit for climbers who want a focused, adrenalized experience in an iconic and less crowded area of the Spanish Peaks region. Whether you’re dialing in your crack technique or simply seeking a well-protected route with character, Pay Before You Pump offers an authentic slice of outdoor climbing with practical logistics that keep your adventure grounded and safe.
Be cautious on the descent—while rappelling is straightforward from the shared anchor, the third-class downclimb to the south includes loose rock and exposed sections that demand careful footwork, especially when wet or windy.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon heat on the face.
Check weather conditions carefully; summer thunderstorms are frequent and the descent can become slick.
Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber to handle both face moves and third-class terrain on descent.
Use the Mini Thins/Truck Stop Crank anchor for a reliable rappel station rather than downclimbing if uncertain about your footing.
Bring a full trad rack with gear placements up to 3 inches, especially to build a secure belay. The climb offers solid placements but be prepared for the occasional tricky spot around the dihedral.
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