Rising to a daunting 14,037 feet, Little Bear Peak stands southwest of Blanca as one of Colorado’s toughest fourteeners, commanding respect from all who dare to climb it. Despite its intimidating reputation, the peak carries a rich history that predates even Blanca's first ascent—the summit was first reached in 1888, revealing a lesser-known chapter in Colorado mountaineering lore.

Most climbers approach Little Bear via the rugged Lake Como Road, which slices sharply upward from the wide, open expanse of the San Luis Valley. This access path is no ordinary drive—the terrain quickly deteriorates into relentless gathering obstacles known locally as "babyheads," halting two-wheel drive vehicles at around 8,000 feet. Beyond this point, only the most capable 4WD vehicles, often heavily modified jeeps, can tackle the narrow, steep grades all the way to Lake Como at nearly 11,740 feet. Each vertical gain here saves you from a demanding hike, but it also weeds out all but the hardiest drivers who crave the adrenaline of this infamous mountain road.

The climb itself presents a complex challenge. While there technically is an easier 3rd class route, its traditional start lies on private land and is now off limits. Instead, climbers take the tougher standard route from Lake Como, known for its danger and sustained difficulty, ranking among the hardest routes to any Colorado fourteener. The terrain can be unforgiving—exposed ridges, loose rock patches, and sharp elevation gain combine to keep you alert at every step.

Classic ascents include the West Ridge and Hourglass Couloir, a route rated 3.5 stars for its blend of technical ridgeline climbing and exhilarating exposure. The Northwest Face and the MCR Route offer sharp alternatives, with star ratings that reflect their appeal to experienced alpinists. For climbers seeking a step up on technicality, the West Ridge Direct, rated 5.3, demands solid trad climbing skills and a confident approach to lead climbing on high-altitude rock.

Weather on Little Bear requires close attention. The mountain's alpine environment is known for rapid shifts, making it crucial to plan climbs in the prime summer months from July to September. Daytime highs are moderate, but sudden storms can bring snow and lightning, a real hazard on exposed routes. The early season or late fall climbs risk deep snow and icy conditions, so timing is as important as preparation.

Beyond the climb, the setting offers a rewarding immersion in the Sangre de Cristo Range’s raw alpine beauty. From the high-altitude meadows near Lake Como to panoramic views atop the summit, this is a place where effort meets spectacular payoff. The climb demands respect but more importantly rewards those who come prepared with the right gear and a cautious mindset.

When packing for this adventure, expect to carry all essentials for high alpine terrain. Protection requirements include standard trad gear with an emphasis on reliable placements for exposed pitches, particularly on the West Ridge Direct. Helmet, sturdy boots, and layers against unpredictable mountain weather are mandatory. Approach by foot from the Lake Como parking area involves roughly 3 to 4 miles of steep, sometimes loose trail with an elevation gain that tests your stamina before you even reach the technical sections.

Descent typically follows the same route back to the valley, requiring vigilance on loose scree and step-downs that can be treacherous if you’re fatigued. This mountain is not a place to rush—taking time for each move ensures safety and enjoyment.

Little Bear Peak offers a unique combination of historical significance, challenging climbing, and alpine grandeur. Its reputation as one of the hardest fourteeners is well earned, but for those looking to push their limits amidst breathtaking isolation and rugged beauty, it stands unmatched. Whether you’re drawn by the technical routes or the raw adventure of the Lake Como approach, Little Bear promises an unforgettable climb for the seasoned adventurer.