"Ellingwood Point’s soaring Northeast face offers a demanding alpine climb removed from Colorado’s more trafficked peaks. Its rugged terrain and isolated valley views deliver a raw and rewarding experience for climbers ready to tackle its challenging rock and elevation."
Ellingwood Point rises sharply at 14,042 feet inside Colorado’s remote Sangre de Cristo Range, offering climbers a distinct blend of stark beauty and challenging terrain. Its Northeast face commands attention with a broad vertical sweep that draws eyes away from the more heavily trafficked Blanca Peak nearby. The climb is perched in an isolated valley that feels untouched, where crisp alpine air sharpens your senses and the terrain’s rough nature demands respect. Though the scenery inspires quiet reflection, the reality of climbing here quickly grounds you — the rock is noticeably "chossy," requiring careful footwork and steady protection choices.
Access begins with a drive from Gardner, Colorado, taking County Road 550 and eventually County Road 580 as you wind through high valleys and forested sections before reaching the Huerfano River Trailhead—an important staging area where dispersed camping is permitted. The hike starts on the Lily Lake Trail, ascending gradually through stands of pine and aspen. At 1.1 miles in, the trail climbs northward, gaining steadily until the altitude reaches about 11,600 feet. Here, the maintained trail fades, prompting a switch to off-trail navigation toward the face. This final stretch demands good route-finding skills and an adaptable approach, rewarding you with dramatic views of both Ellingwood Point and Blanca Peak.
The area offers just a handful of climbing options, including the prominent North Ridge, rated 3.5 stars, which stands as the definitive classic route. While the limited number of established lines might suggest a quiet experience, the quality of the exposure and the alpine atmosphere more than compensate for the relative scarcity. Climbers seeking traditional alpine adventure will appreciate the straightforward but demanding nature of this ridge. Rock conditions lean towards loose and fractured, underscoring the need for caution and solid anchor placement.
The climbing season runs primarily through the late spring to early fall months when the weather stabilizes. High elevation means afternoons can bring sudden storms, so timing your ascent to early mornings maximizes safety and comfort. The face receives ample sun, which can soften chilly mornings, but shade retreats quickly as the day warms. Winter and shoulder seasons are typically inhospitable due to snow and ice settling.
Descending from the routes requires careful planning; climbers need to be prepared to downclimb or rappel carefully, as terrain is steep and often unstable. Given the area’s isolation and altitude, it pays to prepare for self-sufficiency — cell signal is unreliable, and search and rescue response times can be lengthy. A solid knowledge of alpine skills and awareness of changing mountain weather are essential here.
Ellingwood Point stands apart in the Sangre de Cristo Range, promising a raw, high-altitude climbing experience framed by expansive views and a profound sense of solitude. It’s a destination for those ready to embrace the rugged challenges and subtle rewards of alpine climbing in one of Colorado’s less traveled high country reaches.
The rock on Ellingwood’s Northeast face can be loose and fragmented, necessitating careful gear placement and attention to footing. Sudden weather shifts are common at altitude, so plan climbs for early in the day. Approach terrain off-trail around 11,600 feet is steep and uneven—route-finding skills are key to safely navigating to the base.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common at high elevation.
Prepare for off-trail navigation above 11,600 feet; a GPS and map are essential.
Dispersed camping near the trailhead allows for flexible arrival times.
Double-check all protection placements due to the generally loose rock quality.
Access via the Huerfano River Trailhead requires a hike along Lily Lake Trail before breaking off at 11,600 feet to approach the Northeast face. Dispersed camping is available nearby. Expect loose, fractured rock necessitating careful gear placement and solid anchors.
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