"PA's Variation offers a gritty single-pitch trad climb on Eldorado Canyon's Redgarden Wall that demands precise gear work and steady hands. This route provides an alternate finishing line to Pseudo Sidetrack, blending technical hand jams and face holds in a setting that tests both smarts and stamina."
PA's Variation at Eldorado Canyon offers a distinct single-pitch trad climb that serves as an alternate finish to the classic Pseudo Sidetrack. This route starts at a twisted juniper, immediately pulling you into a hanging dihedral that challenges your ability to read gear placements amid broken rock. The heart of the climb centers on a striking corner with a handcrack ranging from 1.5 to 3 inches, demanding steady jamming technique as you push upward. From here, the route curves right, requiring careful pro placement to avoid later struggles.
An old bolt with a rounded aluminum hanger appears on a sloping shelf to the right, a relic from earlier days that some climbers clip with a long sling and a screamer tether, though many opt to bypass it, favoring small nuts tucked behind a 4-inch thick flake for cleaner protection. The climb then ascends through a bulge with limited pro but solid holds, rated around 5.8, before moving into less steep terrain peppered with jugs and reliable placements.
The final stretch takes you traversing right toward trees and a belay station perched on an upper juniper ledge about 90 feet up. For those looking to extend their adventure, it’s possible to continue finishing with the final roof sequence of Archer McLanahan’s route, adding technical face climbing and a bit more pump via 5.8+ moves. Descents are either via the established rappel for The Bulge or a walk-off along the East Slabs if you opt for the Archer McLanahan finish.
Approach is straightforward, dropping you into Eldorado’s Redgarden Wall, a favorite playground for trad climbers hunting solid cracks and varied terrain. The rock’s aging patina offers both challenge and character, with protection needs reflecting the need for a light rack adorned by a few longer slings. Be ready to navigate sections where gear is sparse and placements require strategic thought.
This pitch combines technical hand jams with face climbing transitions, offering an unpolished yet rewarding climb that pulls you into the rock’s expressive angles and textures. It’s an honest route, perfect for climbers who want to push their trad skills in a relatively sheltered setting, with the backdrop of Eldorado's familiar and storied walls.
Hydration and footwear should be planned with care; the approach trails are moderate, but the climb’s exposure calls for sticky shoes that can handle crack and face sequences comfortably. Timing your hustle to avoid the midday sun is wise, as the South Buttress tends to bake in the afternoon, while mornings bring cool shade.
PA's Variation remains a piece of Eldorado’s less traveled network, a spot where solid trad fundamentals meet subtle nuances of protection and movement. Treat the gear placements thoughtfully, respect the old bolt's history, and let the climb refine your technique on a pitch that echoes the essence of Boulder’s climbing culture.
The climb includes sections where gear is hard to place, especially near a bulge, and an old bolt with a round aluminum hanger that many prefer to avoid for safety reasons. Approach these areas thoughtfully, and carry enough small nuts and long slings. The descent involves rappelling near loose ledges or a walk-off that demands attention to footing.
Use sticky shoes for crack and face sequences, balancing support and sensitivity.
Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun on the South Buttress.
Bring a few long slings to extend gear placements and reduce rope drag.
Practice placing small nuts in thin cracks to bypass old bolted sections.
A standard light rack with a few long slings covers the protection needs. The core challenge centers on a thin to hand-sized crack with solid placements, though the start involves shy gear and the finish demands clipping or bypassing an old, round aluminum hanger bolt. Small nuts behind a thick flake offer the safest pro alternative.
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