"A short but demanding trad route offering a sharp blend of tricky protection and challenging moves. Memory Lapse is an excellent choice for climbers wanting a compact test of skill at the end of a day in Eldorado Canyon."
Memory Lapse offers an immediate, punchy trad climbing experience that’s perfect when you’re wrapping up a day in Eldorado Canyon and want one more solid line before heading out. The climb stretches roughly 80 feet up a left-facing corner that quickly reveals its unusual character: a cracked slot that defies easy protection placement and demands careful judgment. The rock isn’t pristine; sections of looser, crumbly stone force you to move deliberately and test footing in areas where confidence wavers. After negotiating this challenging crack, your attention shifts to a leftward move where footholds become sketchy and the wall demands mental focus as much as physical skill. The route’s crux isn’t about constant difficulty but rather those interrupted bursts—quick decisions and subtle adjustments on insecure holds that separate steady climbers from the hesitant. Beyond that, the route opens up to easier climbing along face holds that are generally large and reassuring, letting you breathe as you find your path to the top.
Protection is a careful balance. While a standard rack suffices, the quality of placements fluctuates due to the patchy rock conditions. You will often find options scarce or borderline, which means commitment to each move is essential and placing gear requires a confident hand. The route’s R rating highlights that these protection concerns are real and should not be underestimated. If you’re looking for a quick, engaging climb with genuine challenges in both movement and trust, Memory Lapse fits that bill.
Eldorado Canyon itself is a prized climbing destination just outside Boulder, Colorado, known for its steep sandstone walls and classical routes. This climb sits on the Redgarden Wall within Tower One, placing you within earshot of the river and among a forest of tall pines whose needles crunch softly underfoot. The approach is straightforward and brief, encouraging climbers to seek this route as a late-afternoon encore. Given the exposed nature of the rock in places, aim for cooler parts of the day and be ready to wear sticky shoes suited for fragile edges.
For anyone plotting their day in Eldo, Memory Lapse’s blend of hard-won moves and mixed rock conditions will sharpen your skills and reward your focus without demanding a full day’s commitment. It’s a genuine gem for trad climbers who thrive in technical situations and appreciate a route that tests both finger strength and patience.
Fragile and crumbly rock demands slow, deliberate moves and cautious gear placement. Avoid relying on suspect holds and double-check each piece before committing.
Check the rock quality carefully before trusting gear placements.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the fragile edges.
Plan your climb for cooler parts of the day to avoid overheating on exposed sections.
Keep your approach light—easy trail access makes this perfect for a quick climb after other routes.
Bring a standard trad rack; expect some placements to be tricky due to fractured rock. Be prepared to leave gear behind if unsure.
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