HomeClimbingLower Triagonal

Lower Triagonal at Wind Tower South Face

Boulder, Colorado United States
left-leaning hand crack
crux move
single pitch
trad protection
rocky approach
Eldorado Canyon
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Lower Triagonal
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lower Triagonal is a focused 60-foot trad climb on the South Face of Wind Tower, featuring a distinctive left-leaning hand crack and a technical crux onto the apex. Ideal for climbers seeking solid crack technique with reliable protection in Eldorado Canyon’s classic terrain."

Lower Triagonal at Wind Tower South Face

Lower Triagonal offers a compact yet engaging trad climb on the South Face of the Wind Tower, located within the rugged Eldorado Canyon State Park near Boulder, Colorado. The route begins on the right side of the Lower Triangle, avoiding the obvious ramp and instead leading climbers into an undefined section of terrain before connecting with a distinctive left-leaning hand crack about 25 feet up. This crack steadily tapers off near the top, save for a small pod that provides solid finger placements just before the route’s key challenge—the crux move onto the triangular apex. This final pull tests both technique and composure, requiring a confident reach and balance to surmount.

Experienced climbers may pair this pitch with the adjacent Yellow Traverse, forming a linked ascent sometimes called “Xanthomorphosis.” While individual sections register at 5.9 or 9+ difficulty, combining them elevates the technical demands, pushing close to 5.10b, with added seriousness due to the fall potential especially on the Yellow Traverse portion. The rock quality along the Lower Triagonal is generally solid, but tradition demands careful gear placement, emphasizing the need for smaller cams in the 0.5 to 1 size range. Protection is practical and reliable, but vigilance remains crucial given the less forgiving nature of some placements.

The approach to this route is straightforward, threading through classic Eldorado canyon landscapes of steep cliffs and fir-lined slopes. Wind Tower’s South Face catches early sun and warms quickly, making spring and early fall ideal seasons when the temperature balances between cool mornings and enduring warmth midday. Climbers should arrive prepared with sturdy footwear to handle the uneven, loose terrain at the base and carry hydration suitable for dry conditions.

Lower Triagonal rewards those seeking a short but focused crack climb with clear hand jams and an endgame that demands both finesse and boldness. The route’s single 60-foot pitch is perfect for climbers honing crack technique or those eager for a strong finish after other local classics. The descent is straightforward: a walk-off along the established trails back to the parking area, with no complex rappels necessary.

This climb exemplifies the grit and raw energy of Eldorado Canyon’s less-traveled faces, offering an experience that balances challenge with an approachable character. Whether taken alone or combined with neighboring climbs, Lower Triagonal embodies the spirit of Colorado trad climbing—concrete moves, trustworthy protection, and the kind of setting that fuels ongoing exploration.

Climber Safety

The Yellow Traverse section carries an increased risk of ankle injury if a fall occurs. Careful foot placements and protection in this area are critical. Loose rock near the approach can also demand attentive hiking.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start the climb on the right side of the Lower Triangle avoiding the ramp for best access to the left-leaning crack.

Combine with Yellow Traverse for an extended pitch called Xanthomorphosis, but beware of ankle hazard potential in the traverse.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes suitable for crack work and hike in durable footwear for the approach.

Aim for spring or fall seasons when temperatures balance warmth and shade on the South Face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9, the Lower Triagonal feels true to grade with a distinct crux move that tests finger strength and balance. While the climb rarely pushes beyond this difficulty, combining it with the Yellow Traverse ups the technical ante to an effective 5.10b. The protection is solid but the serious fall potential on the traverse portion earns an S rating for seriousness.

Gear Requirements

Gear placements focus on smaller cams: bring sizes ranging from #0.5 to #1 Camalots. Protection is solid but requires careful placement, especially near the crux and in the hand crack section. Extra gear can be placed for added security but is not strictly necessary.

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Tags

left-leaning hand crack
crux move
single pitch
trad protection
rocky approach
Eldorado Canyon