HomeClimbingLove, Sex, and the IRS

Love, Sex, and the IRS: A Colorado Trad and Sport Climb

Golden, Colorado United States
trad rack
bolt anchor
corner climb
overhang variation
single pitch
morning sun
Golden Colorado
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Love, Sex, and the IRS
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Offering a crisp blend of trad protection and bolt-secured moves, this 60-foot 5.8 route on North Table Mountain invites climbers of varied experience to explore a dynamic corner line with a choice on overcoming a key overhang. Situating yourself just left of Golden's classic "Chunky Monkey," it's a demanding but approachable introduction to the cliffs’ texture and exposure."

Love, Sex, and the IRS: A Colorado Trad and Sport Climb

Situated on the rugged face of North Table Mountain in the Golden Cliffs area near Golden, Colorado, "Love, Sex, and the IRS" offers climbers a direct, engaging trad and sport route with a blend of technical moves and natural flow. This 60-foot line threads through a left-facing corner, demanding careful gear placements on somewhat featured rock before navigating around a prominent overhang. The route begins just to the left of the popular chunkier line known as "Chunky Monkey," offering a more approachable 5.8 challenge that climbers can confidently tackle before venturing into harder territory nearby. From the first moves within the corner, the rhythm requires thoughtful footwork and steady hand jams, rewarding adherence to solid technique over brute force. Beyond the corner, the path shifts right, guiding climbers past an imposing overhang and up the headwall that defines Chunky Monkey's lower crux. Two bolts protect this upper section, and climbers have the choice to confront the overhang head-on for an extra challenge or skirt around it to the right for a less demanding ascent. Anchors are shared at the top, making it possible to set a top rope and work on the tougher moves of Chunky Monkey, rated 5.10a/b. The juxtaposition gives climbers a clear progression path from moderate to more strenuous difficulty, right on the same wall. Accessing this climb involves a concise approach on solid but sparse terrain—golden sandstone cliffs rising above the surrounding brush and scrub. The wall faces northeast, catching morning sun and offering cool shade in afternoon hours. Equipment-wise, climbers should prepare with a traditional rack to 2 inches complemented by a set of quickdraws for the bolts near the anchors. Protection placements require some attention, as the corner bolts are not present, setting a mindful tone to gear management early on. Given the route's lower star rating, expect it to be straightforward but with a couple of spots that test your placement judgment and movement on exposed edges. Local climbers highlight the route for its accessibility and clean rock, making it a solid introduction to multi-tech climbing on this section of North Table Mountain. Weather in the area can shift rapidly, so early starts are recommended to avoid afternoon winds and keep the rock dry and grippy. As always, climbers should be alert for loose rock near the base and respect the natural environment to maintain the quality and safety of the route. "Love, Sex, and the IRS" is the kind of climb that invites steady progression, offering both a practical test of basic trad skills and the reward of sharing space with one of Golden's character-rich walls.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock near the base and along the corner. The overhang section requires careful protection placement and control. Avoid climbing if wet or during high winds, especially given the northeast exposure which can chill and dry unevenly.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Begin your climb early to catch morning sun and avoid afternoon winds.

Place gear thoughtfully in the corner section, as protection relies entirely on natural placements before the bolts.

If the overhang looks daunting, skirt right for an easier variation on the upper headwall.

Top roping "Chunky Monkey" post climb is possible from the shared anchor, ideal for practicing harder moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, this route is generally comfortable for those familiar with basic trad climbing techniques, but don’t let the moderate number fool you. The crux involves maneuvering past the overhang near the top, which if tackled directly demands some technical moves and precise gear placements. Those new to this cliff will find the grade friendly but with a clear learning curve if you push toward the overhang. Compared with nearby climbs like "Chunky Monkey"—which is significantly harder at 5.10a/b—this route provides a solid stepping stone without sacrificing adventure or exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a traditional rack sized up to 2 inches to protect the corner section, plus quickdraws for the two bolts near the top. The anchor is equipped with two bolts shared with the adjacent "Chunky Monkey" route.

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Tags

trad rack
bolt anchor
corner climb
overhang variation
single pitch
morning sun
Golden Colorado