"A sharp, sustained sport climb that moves from steep incut holds into a demanding crack section. At 65 feet and rated 5.10d, it offers a compact, rewarding challenge for climbers eyeing technical precision in Kamloops’ rugged white rock."
The Little Crack Halfway Up route demands focus right from the base, where you meet a steep white overhanging face that challenges both strength and technique. The climb begins on a series of well-spaced incut holds that call for measured, controlled movements as you push upwards past three fixed bolts. Each bolt offers a brief moment to catch your breath, but the sustained steepness ensures your muscles remain engaged throughout. The final section shifts dramatically as you encounter a sharp, narrow crack that tests your crack climbing skills—and your eyes—for loose rock. Protection here is critical; a single 1-inch cam is recommended to secure this stretch, while the anchors await at the top on a double chain system. At 65 feet and a 5.10d rating, the route is a compelling mix of sport climbing discipline and crack climbing tenacity, offering a short but intense encounter with Kamloops’ rugged vertical landscape. Whether you're fine-tuning your form or hunting for that solid, powerful lead, this climb is a practical test that demands respect and readiness. The approach leads you through a scrubby stretch along the beach before veering inland towards the route at the base, with coordinates guiding you precisely to the start. Plan for focused hydration and steady pacing; this face rewards calm, practiced effort more than wild power. Though on the shorter side, the technicality and sustained steepness carve a bold experience that feels like a descent into the rock's core energy—a brief but revealing climb under the bright British Columbian sky.
Loose rock is a real hazard in the crack section—move deliberately and keep your helmet secured. The spacing of bolts calls for solid lead climbing skills, especially managing protection placement with the optional cam.
Watch for loose rock in the final crack—test handholds carefully.
Bring a 1-inch cam to supplement bolt protection in the crack.
Start early to avoid intense afternoon sun on the steep white face.
Approach via the beach access trail—allow 15 minutes from the parking area.
The route is protected by three bolts leading past the steep face, finishing with a bolt and a double chain anchor. A 1-inch cam is highly recommended for the crack section to secure loose rock and maintain safety.
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