Kamloops in British Columbia is a climbing destination that balances accessibility with diverse terrain, ideal for climbers who appreciate variety without the crowds of larger crags. Spread across several smaller areas, none exceeding 30 routes, Kamloops invites climbers to explore different styles — predominately sport climbs with pockets of trad lines and bouldering. This makes it a versatile spot for everyone from beginners to seasoned climbers.

The climbing season here leans toward the generous side. You can realistically start as early as March and keep climbing well into November, provided you’re prepared to face the occasional brisk chill. Summers can be a mixed blessing — the intense sun means you'll often find yourself hunting shade or timing your efforts for cooler parts of the day.

For beginners and sport climbers looking for an easy in, the "Beach" crag, about a 20-minute drive from Kamloops, serves up straightforward routes ranging from 5.4 to 5.11. This spot has a relaxed vibe and is excellent for honing skills in a low-stress environment with climbs that build confidence without sacrificing fun.

Those hungry for steeper challenges will want to make the longer journey out to Roche Lake, roughly 40 minutes away. Here, you’ll find the heart of Kamloops’ sport climbing with routes stretching from 5.8 to 5.13. This area shapes up to test your limits with some of the hardest climbs in the region waiting to be sent.

Further afield lies Hen House, offering a distinctly different feel with its granite rock — a contrast to the typical Kamloops sandstone. This crag tends toward slab and vertical faces, providing routes that blend trad and sport in the 5.8 to 5.12 range. Access demands a 4x4 vehicle and a bit of a rugged sense of adventure but rewards with the quiet solitude and unique climbing experiences only granite can deliver.

Among the collection of classic climbs, you’ll encounter diverse challenges that represent the area’s character. Routes like Tennessee’s "Oregon Jack" (WI4) offer mixed climbing challenges, while sport routes such as "Punch The Monkey" (5.10a), "Wolly Bully" (5.10a), and "Tachycardia" (5.11a) impress with their sharp movement and solid protection. For those preferring easier, yet rewarding climbs, "Tweezers" (5.9) and "Wild Rock" (5.9) provide quality climbing with well-earned reputations.

Getting to Kamloops is straightforward — centrally located in Southern BC, it’s positioned about 3.5 hours east of Vancouver on the Trans Canada Highway, 2.5 hours west of Revelstoke, and 2 hours north of Kelowna. This makes it a convenient hub for climbers traveling through the region.

While the routes are generally sport climbs with some trad mixed in, the grades feel approachable and varied. The overall vibe is one of relaxed exploration — a place to get out, climb a quality route, and enjoy the natural surroundings without the pressure of well-known alpine destinations. Rock quality is solid but varies by crag, so pay attention to your footholds and test any questionable holds on less-traveled lines.

Kamloops climbing benefits from good trail access and reasonable approaches — the shortest drive to crags like the "Beach" means you can squeeze climbing into a half-day outing if needed. Roche Lake’s longer approach rewards perseverance with more challenging climbs, while Hen House’s granite walls call for some careful planning on vehicle needs.

Protection is mainly sport-focused at the "Beach" and Roche Lake, but Hen House requires a mixed rack with trad gear and caution on slab moves. Because of this, bringing a full rack and some experience with trad placements will broaden your options.

Descent options vary by crag, with most routes ending at belay ledges that allow straightforward rappels or downclimbing. As always, check gear and anchors carefully before departure.

With its array of enjoyable sport climbs, solid trad lines, and granite adventures, Kamloops offers an accessible, practical, and exciting climbing playground. Whether you’re tuning up your sport technique or delving into mixed trad-granite routes, this British Columbia area invites you to get comfortable with adventure and sharpen your skills amidst scenic surroundings.