Hen House: Mixed Trad and Sport Climbing on Granite Slabs in British Columbia

Kamloops, British Columbia
granite slab
mixed protection
4x4 access
single pitch
technical climbing
varied gear
Length: 80 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
British Columbia
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hen House challenges climbers with a rare blend of bolted sport lines and mixed traditional protection on granite slabs. Accessible by 4x4, this remote crag near Kamloops offers a seasonally reliable playground for those seeking measured adventure and technical variety."

Hen House: Mixed Trad and Sport Climbing on Granite Slabs in British Columbia

Hen House offers a rugged climbing experience perched on granite slabs in the heart of British Columbia’s wild outdoors. Reaching this crag demands a capable 4x4 vehicle, setting the tone for a day where adventure blends with careful preparation. The climbing here features a hybrid protection style — bolts secure sections where no natural gear fits, while a versatile trad rack is essential to cover a spectrum from micro cams to larger C4 #4s. This mix invites climbers who appreciate the tactical challenge of placing gear amid the security of fixed anchors, crafting a unique blend of sport and traditional climbing.

The wall sits at roughly 3,968 feet elevation, offering climbers crisp mountain air and a landscape where climbing feels remote and earned. The rock itself is solid granite, presenting smooth slabs that demand precision and thoughtful movement rather than brute strength. While the setting is rugged, the routes provide a range of experiences — from moderate climbs like Inducement rated 5.9, which is a favorite with a 4.5 star rating, to more technical challenges such as Dr Scholl’s Funky Feet at 5.10a that reward those with focused technique and confident footwork.

Getting to Hen House requires thoughtful planning—detailed directions are best sourced from the free Kamloops and Area climbing guidebook available at climbkamloops.ca. Climbers will appreciate the dry summer months between June and September as the prime season. The weather is generally favorable in these months, with fewer precipitation days offering more predictable conditions on the granite slabs. This stability makes it ideal for both day trips and longer climbing excursions where weather reliability can shape the difference between a rewarding climb and a retreat.

The climbing here holds a strong appeal for mixed rack users. Bringing both sport gear for the bolts and a trad rack that covers small cams through large pieces is a must, as protection can vary dramatically. This technical diversity means climbers must be prepared not only physically but also mentally, ready to switch between gear styles as the route demands. Rock quality remains dependable but always warrants cautious inspection as cracks can vary in depth and width.

Classic climbs like Inducement, Dr Scholl’s Funky Feet, and Shits & Giggles (rated 5.10b with a 3.0 star rating) offer options for those looking to explore the area's established challenges without venturing into uncertain terrain. These climbs have earned respect for their solid anchors and enjoyable movement, making them milestones on the Hen House granite.

The approach is a key part of the journey: off-road drive followed by a short hike places climbers in a quiet zone where nature’s sounds dominate. While not heavily trafficked, the area rewards climbers who arrive prepared, offering an experience away from crowded crags. The clear air at nearly 4,000 feet enhances focus and sharpens every move on the slab.

Descending routes typically involves walking back along access trails or downclimbing simpler sections, so climbers should be comfortable on their feet and ready to manage their gear efficiently. Proper footwear and hydration are vital for the approach and exit.

Hen House stands as a destination that bridges sport climbing’s streamlined safety with trad’s gear-placement artistry, set against British Columbia’s crisp natural backdrop. It calls to climbers who seek to engage fully with their equipment and environment, rewarding preparation and respect for the mountain terrain with quiet satisfaction and a true sense of accomplishment.

Climber Safety

Approach requires a capable 4x4 and care on unpaved roads. Protection varies widely so be certain your rack covers both micro gear and large cams, and always inspect natural placements carefully. Weather can shift quickly in the mountains so prepare for sudden changes, especially in shoulder seasons.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchessingle pitch
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Access requires a 4x4 vehicle; check road conditions before your trip.

Download the Kamloops and Area climbing guidebook for detailed directions and beta.

Prime climbing season is between June and September for best weather and minimal precipitation.

Bring a rack that covers small to large cams plus a sport rack to safely navigate the mixed protection lines.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:The Hen House offers climbs ranging from beginner-friendly 5.9 routes to more technical 5.10b lines, all featuring mixed protection that calls on climbers to be comfortable placing trad gear alongside bolts. The grades tend to feel fair rather than sandbagged, but the need for precise gear placement adds an extra layer of challenge compared to pure sport climbing. Compared to other BC granite areas, Hen House sits comfortably in the middle ground, rewarding prepared climbers who can adapt their rack and style on the fly.

Gear Requirements

A mixed rack is essential, ranging from micro cams to C4 #4’s, plus sport rack for fixed bolts. Expect to place protection frequently where bolts aren’t available, so pack a comprehensive set of trad gear alongside quickdraws.

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Tags

granite slab
mixed protection
4x4 access
single pitch
technical climbing
varied gear