"Lili Von Shtupp offers a gritty, engaging single-pitch trad climb on Dines Cliff’s textured face. With a 5.9- rating that can stiffen if you take the direct line, this route blends precise footwork with technical corner moves, making it a compelling choice for climbers refining their crack skills in Colorado’s dynamic foothills."
Lili Von Shtupp challenges climbers with a gritty, textured line carved out on Dines Cliff’s rugged face within Staunton State Park. This 90-foot single pitch trek into a narrow alcove demands attention to detail and an appetite for technical moves on grainy rock that scrapes the skin and tests finger strength. The route begins just to the left of looming overhangs, where the corner’s natural features invite you upward with a blend of smears and jams that reward careful footwork. Around 40 feet up, two lead bolts mark a key section that divides the option to ease the grading or pull the direct, steep line. Staying right of the bolts holds the rating to 5.9-, but venturing straight up pushes into hard 10s or low 11 territory—making this climb a playground for those looking to test a borderline 5.9 effort.
The climb pushes through blocky, undulating overhangs after the bolts before settling into a series of right-facing corners at the top that require a confident, balanced approach. This shift from abrasive face climbing to more featured corner work enlivens the experience, giving you a taste of variety uncommon in a single-pitch route. The rock’s texture keeps you engaged at every move—a constant tactile conversation between your hands and feet and the stone itself.
Protection is straightforward but demands a solid rack; a few well-placed cams anchor the initial stretches, supplemented by the two fixed lead bolts at the midway point and a two-bolt chain anchor atop for a secure finish. This means climbers should bring their standard trad rack without expecting overly exotic gear but be ready to place their protection thoughtfully in sometimes shallow cracks.
Access to Dines Cliff is a relatively short approach through Staunton State Park’s open forests and rocky outcrops, with GPS coordinates placing you just south of South Platte’s winding river corridor. The trail is well-defined, with about 15-20 minutes of hiking over uneven terrain that rewards keen hikers with sweeping views of Colorado’s foothills. Timing your climb for mornings or late afternoons helps with shade on the wall, as the canyon aspect gets direct sunlight midday, which can make the grainy holds hotter and less friendly on warm days.
Whether you're aiming to lock in a solid 5.9 lead or push yourself on the steeper direct line that nudges into 5.10 territory, Lili Von Shtupp offers a concise but fulfilling adventure. The mix of protection options and textured rock surface makes it a perfect spot to sharpen trad skills while soaking in the quiet energy of the park. Before heading out, check conditions for rock stability after recent storms, pack durable footwear for the grainy approach, and carry enough water to stay hydrated in Colorado’s dry air. This climb is a compact test of technical ability paired with the raw spirit of the Rockies—a rewarding line for those who respect its gritty character and straightforward challenge.
Watch for loose blocks around the overhang area, especially after wet weather. The ledge near the top of the overhang section offers limited room for rests, so plan gear placements carefully to avoid runouts. The approach trail can be slippery when wet.
Approach trail is uneven; wear sturdy, grippy footwear to navigate rocky terrain.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs avoid the midday sun heating the rock’s grainy surface.
Check weather conditions after storms for any loose rock in the alcove.
Carry sufficient water—Colorado’s dry air can drain hydration faster than expected.
Bring a standard trad rack to protect the grainy corner and blocky overhang sections. Two fixed lead bolts provide added security around the 40-foot mark, with a two-bolt chain anchor at the top for safe anchors. Prepare for some delicate placements in shallow cracks near the overhangs.
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