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Lemmings at Wind Tower SW Face, Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado USA
roof crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
moderate protection
Eldorado Canyon
exposed
crux roof
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Lemmings
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Lemmings offers a compact two-pitch traditional climb on Eldorado’s Wind Tower, featuring a signature roof crack and a few demanding protection spots. It’s ideal for trad climbers looking to stretch their legs on a route blending technical moves and solid exposure."

Lemmings at Wind Tower SW Face, Eldorado Canyon

Lemmings is a trad climb that threads its way through the southwest face of the Wind Tower in Eldorado Canyon, offering a compact but engaging two-pitch adventure with a rating that tests at 5.8-. The route is anchored around the bold cracks and roofs of this iconic granite pillar, rewarding those who seek a blend of technical challenge and exposed climbing in one of Colorado’s historic climbing hubs. Approaching Lemmings involves using the well-trodden first pitch of Calypso or adjacent routes like Boulder Direct, leading to a broad ledge where the heart of the climb unfolds. This ledge acts as a threshold between easy climbing and the more committed moves above. The route then ascends through a large crack system beneath a secondary roof, confronting climbers with a short section of less solid rock that demands focused foot placement and steady hands. The crux hinges on navigating this roof via the crack, requiring a #4 Camalot or equivalent for protection combined with savvy gear placement. While the protection is workable, it asks for creativity and comfort at this grade, not leaving much margin for error. The ascent culminates after negotiating the second roof feature instead of opting for the simpler crack and corner system to the right, an alternative that yields fewer stars and protection quality. This variation adds a touch more commitment and grants a more satisfying finish. Once at the anchors, descent is straightforward but demands attention—rappel setups lie fixed above Boulder Direct, so traversing left along the ledge is necessary to reach them safely. Eldorado’s Wind Tower delivers a striking outdoor experience, where the granite’s texture grips your fingers, the canyon walls catch shifting winds that push and tease, and the quiet below stirs with the rustle of pine and distant traffic along the highway. Climbers drawn here will appreciate the balance of exposure, accessible length, and authentic traditional climbing feel. With moderation on gear and a clear head on pitch management, Lemmings is a concise and rewarding piece of Eldorado’s vertical puzzle, inviting both locals and visitors to engage directly with the rock’s rough personality and the canyon’s storied history.

Climber Safety

The section beneath the second roof features weaker rock, so be deliberate with your placements and body positioning. Also, the rappel anchors lie off-route, requiring a leftward traverse on an exposed ledge—ensure you’re comfortable with this move before committing to descent.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Start from the big ledge below the West Overhang, accessible via Calypso or Boulder Direct’s first pitch.

For better protection and a star rating, finish through the second roof system rather than the easier crack.

Traverse left from the anchors at the top to reach the fixed rappel stations above Boulder Direct.

Expect a short section of loose rock near the second roof; proceed with care on placements there.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8- grade on Lemmings feels a bit demanding due to tricky protection and a crux roof that requires both power and finesse. While technically accessible, the route asks for solid headspace and gear confidence. Compared to nearby classic routes, Lemmings is slightly underrated in star rating if protecting routes at this level are your focus.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with a well-placed #4 Camalot or equivalent to manage the crux roof. Protection demands thoughtful placement due to some poorer rock quality near the second roof section. Avoid pushing the grade with less confident 5.8 leaders.

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Tags

roof crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
moderate protection
Eldorado Canyon
exposed
crux roof