"La Classique on Mont Pinacle offers a grounded alpine trad climb spanning five pitches of steady, engaging moves amid Québec’s Eastern Townships. Expect thoughtful gear placements and a scenic descent through forested trails."
La Classique carves a measured yet rewarding path up the rugged face of Mont Pinacle, situated in the Eastern Townships of Québec. This five-pitch trad route unfolds an alpine climbing experience that balances straightforward moves with moments demanding attentive footwork and mindful protection placements. Starting at the base, the initial pitch moves gently up a left corner before navigating right towards a cluster of two glue-ins nestled by a lone cedar—an early hint of the route’s connection to its natural surroundings. As you ascend, the terrain guides climbers diagonally along a crack system that hugs the cedar tree beneath the nearby Camey route, providing a reliable anchor point and a restful pause to take in the thick forest air and filtered sunlight.
The middle pitches continue this thoughtful progression, leading up and over a prominent block that demands respect and caution—especially near a wooden block lodged under a rock, which climbers are advised to leave undisturbed for safety. Above this feature, the climb angles slightly rightward to a secure ledge, where gear placements offer reassurance amid the rising exposure. The final pitch challenges climbers to make a rightward traverse across a modest balcony to another tree anchor, then veers right again, concluding with a careful movement along a horizontal crack punctuated by a solitary, mid-way pin. This traverse leads to the summit anchors, two glue-ins securing the end of your ascent and signaling the tranquil moment before descent.
The descent is straightforward: hikers retrace their route via Trail 1 back to the parking area, providing a welcome cool-down amid the lush greenery that carpets the mountain’s base. Throughout the climb, protection relies heavily on traditional gear placements with the exception of anchors one and five, which use glued-in protection. Some pins remain from older climbs but should be eyed with caution, as placements sometimes require stretching out to maintain safety. Climbers should come prepared with a standard trad rack optimized for mixed-sized gear to tackle the route confidently.
La Classique welcomes climbers seeking a methodical alpine trad route with manageable technical demands framed by the quiet yet commanding presence of Mont Pinacle. This climb fuses practical climbing challenges with a serene wilderness setting, providing both an approachable experience for intermediate trad climbers and a satisfying outing for seasoned alpinists visiting Québec’s Eastern Townships.
Exercise caution around the loose wooden block on pitch 4; avoid any attempts to remove or alter it. Some old pins are present but should not be solely relied on—ensure all placements are solid before committing. Descending via Trail 1 demands careful footing as it can be steep and uneven in wet conditions.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and to have ample daylight for the descent trail.
Double-check protection placements near the wooden block on pitch 4; avoid disturbing it.
Wear sturdy, grippy climbing shoes for the varied crack and slab sections.
Hydrate well before the approach as there’s no water source on the wall.
The route requires a full trad rack with a good range of sizes. All protection is trad gear except for anchors 1 and 5 which have glued-in bolts. Some old pins remain but placements can be widely spaced, demanding a confident rack setup and strategic placement skills.
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