Black Mountain’s Main Cliff stands as the heart of climbing adventure in this quiet corner of Vermont. Tucked 3 miles north of the town of Norton along VT Route 114, this rugged granite face demands a bit of effort to reach, but rewards climbers with quality routes and natural beauty. After some initial bushwhacks through forest and undergrowth, a trail has been carved and cairns placed, guiding you steadily toward the cliff’s right side where the climbing magic begins.

The approach itself sets the tone: rough and raw, with a powerline road that can get soggy in spring or suffer washouts. A high-clearance vehicle is recommended to navigate the 6.4 miles down Gaudette Road and beyond, where a small clearing marks the starting point of your journey on foot. From here, a flagged trail leads through patches of recent logging, a reminder that this wild climbing spot still feels close to nature’s pulse.

Main Cliff’s granite offers a playground of crack climbs and airy arêtes that test both technique and nerve. Just beyond a natural cave formed by a leaning boulder, the route Bikes-N-Ditches welcomes climbers eager to warm up on solid holds. The rock is strikingly clean and textured, inviting careful footwork and precise hand jams. Classic climbs adorn the cliff, including well-loved routes like Traffic Jam (5.9), Sweet Life (5.10a), and Soul Journey (5.10), each beckoning with their unique challenges and smooth granite features. More demanding lines such as Some Say the Crux is the Hardest (5.12a) add extra incentive for those seeking to push their limits amid a stunning Vermont landscape.

At an elevation of about 2,445 feet, this cliff enjoys a setting that is as much about the climb as the environment. Climbers share the space with seasonal raptor closures, so it’s essential to consult local access updates via cragvt.org before planning your trip. Weather here shifts quickly, with wet conditions possible in the spring, emphasizing the need for proper timing and preparedness.

Protection on these routes typically calls for a well-rounded rack designed for cracks and corners, while the approach and terrain favor durable footwear with ankle support. The trail to the cliff passes through soft forest floors and occasionally soggy stretches, nature’s reminder to expect the unexpected. Descending after a rewarding day is straightforward, with walk-offs guiding climbers gently back toward the trailhead.

Experienced climbers will appreciate the tonal variety here – from technical crack systems to bold, exposed arêtes – all singing with vertical granite. The atmosphere is unpretentious and focused: a climbing spot built by sheer effort and natural contour rather than polished amenities. It’s a place to push skills and appreciate the raw elements, whether you’re seeking a smooth 5.9 or a bold 5.11c.

For anyone drawn to granite cracks and the solitude of Northern Vermont’s wilderness, Main Cliff at Black Mountain promises a genuinely rewarding adventure grounded by practicality and the pure joy of quality climbing.