"The Central/Entrance Boulders in Northern Vermont present a striking 20-foot granite prow surrounded by small caves and adjacent overhung faces. Offering technical bouldering on solid quartz-granite cracks, this spot delivers memorable moves in an accessible forest setting with seasonal wildlife considerations."
Rising boldly in Vermont’s Northern region, the Central/Entrance Boulders stand as the largest and most striking formations in their area, catching the eye even before the first step is taken on approach. This pair of 20-foot tall granite-and-quartz boulders delivers a pure bouldering experience wrapped in natural artistry. The most prominent boulder features a large prow-like face punctuated with clean, sharp cracks and seams that invite climbers to test their techniques on real granite texture. Behind this is a network of small caves carved into the rock, a rare feature that adds an adventurous dimension to the climb and a shaded place to catch your breath between attempts.
Approaching the Central/Entrance Boulders is straightforward—these stones dominate their landscape and are the clearest landmark on the trail, making them easy to locate for first-time visitors. Situated at an elevation of approximately 2,410 feet, the area offers both refreshing elevations and the peaceful forest environment that Northern Vermont is known for. Climbers can anticipate crisp air and occasional breeze that enhances the climbing experience, particularly in the prime seasons stretching from late spring through early fall.
The climbing here centers on quality over quantity, highlighted most notably by the classic problem “Proceed With Caution” (V1) rated 4.0 stars. Though the area does not boast a large number of routes, the unique granite prow demands precise footwork and finger placements, delivering a satisfyingly technical challenge for bouldering enthusiasts seeking to refine their crack climbing technique. Adjacent to this is another overhung boulder with fewer features, which contrasts nicely by testing one’s power and balance in more blank terrain.
Access is carefully managed due to seasonal raptor closures. Climbers should plan visits with consideration for these restrictions and consult local resources like cragvt.org to ensure compliance and help preserve the wildlife. This respect for nature protects both the ecosystem and the climbing future of these boulders.
The rock quality is typical of Vermont’s granite—solid and offering good friction, but climbers need to prepare for a few sharp edges around the prow and remain cautious on brittle quartz seams. Gear requirements are minimal since it’s a bouldering area, but bringing multiple pads is advisable to cover all landing zones beneath the interlocking formations. The proximity of the caves also offers shelter if weather changes abruptly.
For those interested in timing, the boulder’s aspect means that mornings and late afternoons in the summer provide the best climbing windows when the sun’s angle softens the heat on the stone. Rainy days are best avoided since moisture clings to cracks longer than smooth faces and can make holds slick. Lastly, descending is as simple as stepping down carefully onto flat ground around the base — no rappel or technical descent needed.
This is a destination where the adventure lies in the fusion of distinct granite features and understated technical moves, located within a pristine Vermont forest setting. At Central/Entrance Boulders, climbers encounter an environment that feels intimate yet challenging, providing a rewarding stop whether you’re just passing through Northern Vermont or planning a dedicated bouldering trip. Be prepared, respect seasonal closures, and immerse yourself in the tactile thrill of climbing some of the cleanest, most carefully preserved granite boulders the state has to offer.
Be cautious on the sharp edges around the prow and avoid climbing during seasonal nesting closures to protect wildlife. The cave areas can be cool and damp, so check conditions for potential moisture-related slickness.
Check cragvt.org for seasonal raptor closures before planning your trip.
Bring multiple pads to cover landings around the prow and caves.
Morning and late afternoon offer the best temperatures for climbing in summer.
Avoid climbing on wet granite cracks to prevent slips and rock damage.
Minimal gear needed beyond several bouldering pads due to interlocking features and potential for uneven landings. The rock is solid granite with some sharp edges and quartz seams requiring attentive footwork.
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