Black Mountain North stands quietly apart from the larger, busier cliffs nearby, offering climbers an off-the-radar spot tucked beneath a high-voltage powerline. This compact area unfolds beside a pronounced rock fall visible from the access road, delivering a raw, roadside climbing experience framed by Vermont’s northern forested landscape. Approaching from VT Route 114, you travel roughly three miles past Norton before turning onto Gaudette Road, a stretch that demands a cautious drive as washouts can challenge vehicles without ample clearance. This is a reminder that adventure here begins not just on the rock face but also on the unassuming trailhead drive.

Climbers parking at the designated pullout just beyond a culvert will find themselves standing on the edge of the cliff’s east side, greeted by flagging and a fresh trail leading left to the crag. At an elevation of 2,398 feet, this modest peak affords a sense of altitude without the steep approach plagued by dense undergrowth — a refreshing lens through which to experience northern Vermont’s natural ruggedness.

Black Mountain North hosts an array of routes, ranging from approachable 5.6s to more challenging 5.10s, anchored by solid classics like Button Buck (5.6), The North Remembers (5.8), and Wildling (5.9). For climbers fishing for a bit more challenge, Castle Black and Queen of Dragons both rate at 5.9 and 5.10a respectively — with their solid star ratings hinting at satisfying sequences paired with dependable rock quality. Side Effects rounds out notable climbs with a softer 5.10a difficulty, providing some dynamic options across the crag’s compact footprint.

Rock type is not explicitly defined here, but climbers should anticipate a rugged, natural feel given the visible rockfall and roadside character. The vibe balances raw adventure with practical access. Seasonal raptor closures are a crucial consideration — visitors must check local regulations on cragvt.org before setting out to avoid disrupting sensitive wildlife.

The south-facing wall basks in sunlight for most of the day, making spring through fall the prime time to climb — Vermont’s climate offering long daylight hours during summer, with cooler shoulder seasons perfect for those who prefer crisp air over heat. Weather averages support a climbing season mostly free of heavy precipitation, although the occasional wet day should encourage bringing versatile gear.

Protection tends toward traditional and sport gear for well-bolted climbs and some gear placements. Tri-cams or small to medium cams are recommended to safeguard sections where bolts are more sparing. The approach trail is recently flagged and easy to follow, but the unpaved, washout-prone access road commands careful driving and a robust vehicle to avoid trouble.

Descents are straightforward with short down climbs and walk-off options, eliminating the need for complicated rappels. This simplicity makes Black Mountain North ideal for a day trip or part of a broader Vermont climbing itinerary that includes nearby larger crags.

Classic climbs here bring a mix of sustained enjoyment and moderate challenge without overwhelming new visitors. With thoughtful access, dependable bolts, and a distinct setting just beneath open powerlines, the area blends the gritty with the accessible. Climbers seeking a mix of route quality, seasonal wildlife awareness, and easy approach will appreciate discovering this quietly compelling northern Vermont gem.