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Khaleesi at Staunton State Park: A Sport Climb with Face Climbing Flair

Denver, Colorado United States
sport
face climbing
delicate holds
single pitch
south facing
sandstone
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Khaleesi
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Khaleesi invites climbers to engage in a focused 50-foot sport climb featuring technical face moves on solid sandstone. Close to Denver in Staunton State Park, this route blends accessible approach with precise, enjoyable climbing."

Khaleesi at Staunton State Park: A Sport Climb with Face Climbing Flair

Situated within the expansive wilds of Staunton State Park, Khaleesi delivers a concise yet spirited challenge for sport climbers craving a technical face climb with ample character. This single-pitch route, stretching approximately 50 feet, unfolds on a sun-exposed wall that sits along the scenic veins of the South Platte canyon. Climbers encounter a sequence of well-spaced bolts guiding an ascent marked by precise footwork and delicate handholds. The face demands careful attention to subtle edges and crimps rather than relying on large jugs, encouraging a rhythm focused on balance and control.

The climb shares its fixed hardware with its neighbor, Viserion, allowing climbers to explore variations across this compact section of rock. A short finger crack near the route’s base invites a transition from clean lines of face climbing to a change in texture before returning to the more technical face moves. The rock’s character is typical of Colorado sandstone—solid with a slight roughness that offers dependable friction even on smaller holds.

Access to Khaleesi is straightforward; a brief approach through pine-shadowed trails within Staunton State Park leads to the base, making it an accessible diversion for a half-day climbing outing or a warm-up before exploring more demanding routes nearby. The area's open exposure invites sunlight for most of the day, ideal for autumn or spring climbs when temperatures hover comfortably below summer highs.

Safety is bolstered by a clean line of seven lead bolts and a secure, two-bolt anchor at the top. While the protection is straightforward, the relatively sparse bolt line means climbers should be confident placing gear mentally between clips, maintaining composure on face moves without ample resting spots. The route’s grade of 5.9- fits firmly into the moderate sport category, well-suited for climbers stepping up to sustained face climbing that requires some finesse but avoids intense cruxes.

Staunton State Park itself is an outdoor playground where granite domes and sandstone walls rise from forested slopes, offering a setting rich in natural beauty and solitude away from busier climbing hubs. Beyond Khaleesi, the park rewards adventurers with varied routes and hiking trails winding through mixed evergreen and aspen stands, perfect for combining climbing with immersive nature experiences.

For your ascent, sturdy climbing shoes with a sensitive toe box will maximize edge contact, essential on the smaller holds peppered through the route. Carry enough water, as despite the shaded forest approach, the face’s tendency to soak up sun can amplify dehydration risk. Early season or late afternoon climbs help manage temperature, reducing the heat glare on the rock surface.

In sum, Khaleesi presents a compelling blend of technical face climbing and straightforward protection within a setting that balances accessibility with a genuine sense of climbing adventure. It’s a route that sparks both learning and enjoyment, perfect for climbers sharpening their face technique or anyone looking for a brief but satisfying crag experience just a short drive from Denver.

Climber Safety

While protection is solid with seven bolts, spacing requires confident clipping and movement without extended rests on the face. The rock is generally sound, but climbers should remain cautious of small loose flakes near the crack section.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via the established Staunton Rocks trailhead for a 15-minute hike to the base.

Bring shoes with sticky rubber for maximum grip on the delicate face holds.

Avoid midday climbs in summer; the exposed wall heats up quickly under direct sun.

Hydrate well—there are no water sources at the base or on the route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:This 5.9- grade feels well-calibrated for moderate sport climbers, featuring moves that rely on balance and precise footwork rather than raw power. The route carries a consistent difficulty, making it approachable as a stepping stone to harder face climbs in the region.

Gear Requirements

The climb is protected by seven lead bolts spaced to accommodate a confident sport climber’s clipping rhythm, capped with a reliable two-bolt anchor. No trad gear is needed.

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Tags

sport
face climbing
delicate holds
single pitch
south facing
sandstone