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Keelhauled: A Classic Trad-Alpine Climb on Pike's Peak

Colorado Springs, Colorado United States
5.9
single pitch
alpine trad
runout
bolt anchor
Pike's Peak
exposed
classic line
Length: 110 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Keelhauled
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Keelhauled delivers a focused, single-pitch trad climb on Pike's Peak with a 5.9 R rating. Its sparse protection and commanding alpine setting offer an engaging challenge for prepared climbers seeking a blend of adventure and precision."

Keelhauled: A Classic Trad-Alpine Climb on Pike's Peak

Keelhauled presents a focused alpine trad challenge high above Colorado Springs, offering climbers a direct, gritty line that demands both finesse and commitment. Starting from the first belay station of the nearby East Boy route, this climb veers right, skirting past a solitary bolt before pushing upward through clean, solid rock. The route ascends approximately 110 feet in a single pitch, threading a line that feels straightforward yet serious, with a 5.9 R rating warning of runout sections that require confident gear placements and unflinching steadiness.

Pike's Peak commands attention as a seasoned alpine destination, with Keelhauled sitting in a zone where mountain air sharpens focus and rugged terrain tests resolve. Climbers will find a measured rhythm here, balancing careful moves on features that are well-protected but sparse, demanding a well-prepared standard rack including cams and nuts. The lone bolt near the start provides a reassuring anchor but does not diminish the traditional character of the climb.

Approaching the route, adventurers traverse alpine slopes where wind catches the pines and the scent of cold stone lingers. This spot rewards the patient with views that stretch down into Colorado Springs and beyond, where the contrast of natural grandeur and urban sprawl unfolds beneath an open sky. The climb’s exposure is real but manageable, with a belay anchor shared with East Boy that serves as a reliable endpoint before descending.

Timing your climb on Keelhauled is key — spring through early fall offers stable weather and less snow, while early mornings reduce glare and heat on the rock face. Given the alpine setting, preparation is essential: pack appropriate layers, carry enough water for hydration in a high-elevation environment, and select footwear with sticky soles for confident edging on the granite surface.

The descent involves rappelling from the shared anchor, requiring care to avoid swing hazards in the open alpine environment. Approach trails are straightforward but can be steep and uneven, so sturdy hiking boots help conserve energy before the climb even begins.

Keelhauled doesn’t shout with bells and whistles. Instead, it rewards climbers looking for a clear, classic alpine experience that challenges not only technical skill but also mental control. This route is ideal for veterans of moderate trad routes seeking that blend of solitude, exposure, and sharp alpine air. It’s a route where preparation meets adventure, and every hold counts as you make your way skyward.

Climber Safety

The route’s protection is sparse beyond the single bolt near the start, making solid gear placement essential. The alpine exposure means weather can shift rapidly; check forecasts and avoid climbing if storms are expected. The rappel anchor is reliable but rappelling requires care to avoid pendulum hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length110 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and maximize stable weather conditions.

Wear sticky-soled shoes for better grip on the granite face.

Carry layered clothing to adjust to quickly changing alpine temperatures.

Double-check rappel gear and anchor setup for a safe descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating reflects the route’s technical moves combined with sections of sparse protection that elevate the psychological challenge. Though physically moderate by Colorado traditions, runouts require focused routing and confident gear placements. Climbers familiar with local moderate trad lines will recognize the stiff edge this route holds, with a crux that demands both attention and control.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard Zen rack with a selection of cams and nuts. The route features one fixed bolt early on but relies primarily on traditional gear placements. Prepare for runout sections where gear choice and placement quality are critical.

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Tags

5.9
single pitch
alpine trad
runout
bolt anchor
Pike's Peak
exposed
classic line