Climbing Fairy Tale Wall in Colorado’s Alpine High Country

Colorado Springs, Colorado
north-facing
alpine
mixed climbing
ice swings
Scottish moss swings
short approach
high elevation
Length: 400 ft
Type: Mixed
Stars
Pitches
single pitch
Protected Place
Pike National Forest
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Fairy Tale Wall in Colorado’s high alpine offers a compact but exhilarating climbing experience accessible by a short approach road. Best tackled in frozen conditions, this north-facing tiered wall presents technical mixed routes such as the classic Beanstalk, set against a rugged mountain backdrop near the famous Snow Couloirs."

Climbing Fairy Tale Wall in Colorado’s Alpine High Country

At an elevation just shy of 11,850 feet, Fairy Tale Wall offers an alpine climbing experience that connects ambition with dramatic natural beauty. Found in the high country of Colorado — just off an established dirt road near the 13-mile mark where road closures often happen — this north-facing tiered wall stands out with its stark, dark granite face looming against the rugged mountain backdrop. Approaching the wall, you’ll find yourself on a short, straightforward trail leading to the base of a gully drainage, framed to the looker’s right of the 'Three little Pigs' Snow Couloirs. This positioning creates an atmosphere that’s quiet and a touch remote without being overly demanding on the approach.

Fairy Tale Wall is best explored in the heart of alpine season when everything is frozen solid. During these colder months, the rock face coheres into ideal conditions for Scottish moss swings and ice mixed moves, bringing a unique challenge for climbers seeking alpine-style routes with a chill in the air. The wall’s north-facing aspect means it stays cool, often keeping ice and snow intact longer than south-facing routes, so plan your ascent accordingly. The terrain includes tiered features that reward careful route-finding and technical precision.

Among the routes here, 'Beanstalk' is a recognized classic and comes highly regarded with 3.5 stars, signaling a quality climb that demands respect. Though Fairy Tale Wall only hosts a handful of established routes, the experience is amplified by the setting — the alpine air, the clean silence interrupted only by wind or the sound of rock or ice shifting — all playing a part in the adventure. Climbers will appreciate the balance of technical challenge and the straightforward approach, making it a solid option for those acclimatized to high elevations and interested in mixed ice and rock climbing without a long backcountry trek.

Getting here requires careful planning around road conditions — the access point often closes in winter past mile 13 — so timing your visit is key. The road access makes it accessible for a day trip, despite its alpine character. Once at base, the wall’s proximity to other regional climbing features adds to the overall appeal, though Fairy Tale Wall stands distinct in offering a more contained, focused experience for those intrigued by cold season climbs.

The surrounding landscape is iconic Colorado alpine scenery — stony gullies, snow couloirs, and towering ridgelines. While the rock type isn’t specified, the character of the climbs and altitude suggests solid granite providing reliable holds and placement for protection. This area is part of the greater Pike’s Peak region near Colorado Springs, itself a magnet for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts looking for high altitude challenges within accessible range of town.

In practical terms, climbing here means preparing for alpine conditions: expect cold temps, possibly icy approaches, and bring gear suited for mixed climbing. While the routes are relatively few, they provide a specialist’s playground, especially in frozen conditions where rock meets ice. For climbers eager to experience a less crowded alpine venue with technical merit and a touch of regional character, Fairy Tale Wall offers an invigorating alternative to the typical summer crags. The road access, classic route like Beanstalk, and its striking position adjacent to the Snow Couloirs all contribute to making this a memorable destination that rewards planning and respect for mountain weather.

Climber Safety

Approach with due care for rapidly changing alpine weather and road access conditions. The rock can be icy and mossy, making protection placements sometimes tricky. Always verify the stability of frozen sections and be prepared for cold temperatures and potential black ice on the approach trail.

Area Details

TypeMixed
Pitchessingle pitch
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Check road access status near the 13-mile mark before planning your trip, as closures are common.

Best climbed in the winter or early spring when frozen conditions hold, enhancing safety and climbability.

Approach via the established dirt road to the base of the gully drainage for a straightforward hike.

Bring mixed climbing protection and tools — ice and rock gear essential for effective protection.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Routes on Fairy Tale Wall carry a classic 3.5 star rating, indicating solid, engaging climbs of moderate difficulty suited for experienced mixed climbers. The grades reflect genuine alpine conditions with ice and rock features, staying true to the region's reputation for technical challenges rather than overly soft grades. Climbing here feels authentic to Colorado’s alpine mixed tradition, offering a blend of technical precision and cold season ruggedness.

Gear Requirements

Fairy Tale Wall requires gear suited for alpine and mixed climbing. Prepare for Scottish moss swings on frozen sections, and bring ice tools alongside traditional protection. Since routes are mixed and north-facing, expect icy conditions and pack gear accordingly.

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Tags

north-facing
alpine
mixed climbing
ice swings
Scottish moss swings
short approach
high elevation