The Hermitage: Elevated Crack Climbing on Colorado’s High Spire

Colorado Springs, Colorado
crack climbing
multi-pitch
ledges
west-facing
high elevation
adventure
classic routes
Length: 275-325 feet ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
multi-pitch
Protected Place
Cathedral Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Hermitage stands tall in Cathedral Park, offering climbers robust crack climbing set among unique ledge systems and elevated mountain scenery. This high spire rewards confident leaders and new multi-pitch aspirants alike with classic lines and broad views."

The Hermitage: Elevated Crack Climbing on Colorado’s High Spire

On the rugged flanks of the Colorado Rockies, The Hermitage stands apart—literally and figuratively—from its imposing neighbor, the Monastery. Rising above the valley at 10,112 feet, this prominent spire catches the eye of every visitor to Cathedral Park. But the real appeal is reserved for those willing to shoulder a rack and hunt for the rhythmic movement of classic crack lines high above the forest floor.

Approaching The Hermitage is an adventure all its own. The journey winds through the airy pine forests west of Colorado Springs, following the same GPX track as for the Monastery, before separating toward the distinctive outline of the Hermitage itself. Here, a broad, 2nd class gully cleanly divides these two rock citadels, making navigation straightforward for climbers—just hug the right side as you gain elevation and soon the western faces appear.

Once you stand beneath its west-facing wall, the excitement is palpable. The Hermitage is shaped by a unique system of ledges that intersect its face, transforming longer crack climbs into naturally sectioned pitches. These ledges are more than a quirk—they lend flexibility for linking or breaking up routes as conditions and team strength dictate. For those looking to push into the multi-pitch realm, this layout can soften the commitment level, allowing strategic belays and minimizing rope drag.

The real draw, however, is the excellent crack climbing on high-quality rock—the kind that rewards confident jamming and careful gear placements. Routes here earn their stripes not with brutality, but with clean lines and thoughtful sequences. Crowning the collection is The Ascension, a classic 5.9 with a well-earned four-star reputation. Its movement, position, and exposure have secured it as a must-do for crack enthusiasts looking for a challenge above the trees. Nearby, Opus Dei (also 5.9, three stars) brings its own character—solid rock, distinct pitches, and a meditative rhythm once the jams start flowing. For those who seek steeper challenges, Flagellation (5.10) and Testify (5.10c) beckon with slightly harder moves and equally memorable climbing.

Despite the big feel of the setting, The Hermitage’s accessible ledge systems anchor it as a smart choice for those new to multi-pitch trad. Each pitch can present choices: go for it in a single push or break up the route for a more deliberate experience. The exposure here is real, especially with the broad views sweeping over Cathedral Park, but protection is solid and the lines straight.

While the routes see their prime in the heart of the climbing season (late spring through early fall), changing mountain weather can catch even experienced teams off guard. The high elevation delivers refreshing cool, but also means storms and wind are never too far away. Quick movement and a constant eye on the sky are rewarded.

Access comes with a caveat—much of the approach to Cathedral Park Ranch crosses private land. Climbers must park before Clyde and the tunnel, and take care to keep vehicles off private property. Plan for a modest walk-in and double-check your maps before heading out.

With its combo of excellent rock, thoughtful ledge systems, and a menu of classic cracks, The Hermitage is for climbers who relish both movement and mountain atmosphere. Bring your best crack skills, an appreciation for variable pitches, and a healthy respect for changing alpine conditions, and you’ll leave with more than just tired forearms: you’ll have stories anchored high above Colorado’s wild high country.

Climber Safety

Mind the ledge systems—while they offer useful belay stances, a slip near edges can be consequential. Watch for loose rock transitioning between ledges and beware of rapid changes in mountain weather that can bring wind or lightning.

Area Details

TypeTrad
Pitchesmulti-pitch
Length275-325 feet feet

Local Tips

Always check current land access and park well before private property boundaries near Clyde and the tunnel.

The ledge systems allow you to customize pitch lengths—bring extra slings to manage rope drag.

Weather changes fast at this elevation; start early and plan to descend if storms roll in.

All main routes face west, making late morning and afternoon the best times for cool shade.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Grades at The Hermitage align closely with classic Colorado standards—expect honest ratings without sandbagging, but the high elevation and exposure can make them feel a notch spicier than gym or urban crag equivalents. Climbers familiar with Lumpy Ridge or the South Platte will feel at home. Give respect to the 5.10s, especially if the wind kicks up.

Gear Requirements

This is classic crack climbing terrain—bring a solid trad rack, emphasizing doubles in hand sizes for the longer cracks. Protection is generally good, but having a range up to wide hands ensures comfortable support for the more varied routes. All climbing is on the west side of the formation, maximizing afternoon shade.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
ledges
west-facing
high elevation
adventure
classic routes