HomeClimbingIan Murders Another Route

Ian Murders Another Route

Golden, Colorado United States
chimney
trad gear
bolted face
single pitch
5.8
North Table Mountain
Length: 55 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Ian Murders Another Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ian Murders Another Route offers a compact and varied trad climb on North Table Mountain with a mix of chimney technique and bolted face climbing. Its options and steady protection make it an inviting challenge for climbers ready to test both gear placement and bold moves."

Ian Murders Another Route

Ian Murders Another Route presents a straightforward yet engaging test piece amid the rugged cliffs of North Table Mountain, just outside Golden, Colorado. This single-pitch trad climb carves through a nappy chimney that leads to an exposed ledge, setting the stage for a route that balances technical gear placements with bold moves. The approach is direct, merging classic chimney technique with finger-strength demands on a series of bolts that line the right edge of the chimney. Climbers start by ascending the broad chimney, moving left past well-placed gear before tackling a left-facing corner secured by a bolt. Beyond this, the path nudges right of a previous route to reach a modest ledge interrupted by a narrow crack, perfect for a #1 Camalot placement.

From this down-sloping ledge, the route opens to options that suit varying skill levels and preferences: stem boldly across the chimney using the distinct mondo holds on the right and crimpers on the left, while clipping through four closely spaced bolts on the adjacent face (rated 5.8), or alternatively, push for a more technical experience by taking the arete direct, which offers a slightly harder 5.9 challenge with inventive moves and increased exposure. A lower-difficulty 5.5 corner option remains a quieter choice for those seeking a less strenuous finish. All variations meet at the shared chain anchor, a clean conclusion to a climb offering moderate difficulty with enough variety to hold the interest of both trad newcomers and seasoned local climbers.

The rock quality is typical for the region—rugged and textured, providing friction underfoot and reliable placements though occasional loose flakes call for attentive gear checks. Protection involves a combination of five bolts and traditional cams, with a #1 Camalot being essential for the narrow crack past the ledge. The climb demands solid chimney work and patience in gear placement, making it well suited for those comfortable with traditional techniques and bolted sport challenges within the same pitch. The setting, on the northern edge of a prominent rock face, ensures steady sun exposure in the morning, cooling off in the afternoon shadows, thus making early starts ideal for summer ascents.

Ian Murders Another Route is approachable but not to be underestimated. Its location near Golden provides easy access, and the short 55-foot length means climbers can link it with nearby routes for half-day sessions. Crowds are minimal given its modest star rating, but the climb’s variety and exposed features reward those who give it a dedicated visit. Wear sturdy shoes for reliable edging, and bring water to stay refreshed, especially in warmer months. With solid protection options and distinct climbing sequences, this route invites climbers to sharpen their trad skills while soaking in the open air and expansive views of Colorado’s foothills.

Final tip: be ready for a technical move across that chimney stem section—the holds are small but confident footwork and a steady hand on gear placements will carry you safely to the chains. Plan your approach with GPS coordinates handy, and maintain awareness of loose rock on the ledge to ensure a safe ascent and descent. This route delivers a crisp balance of exposure, climbing diversity, and solid mid-range difficulty suited for an adventurous day out on North Table Mountain’s golden cliffs.

Climber Safety

Watch for small loose flakes in the chimney and ledge areas; careful gear placements paired with attentive climbing mitigate risk. The down-sloping ledge requires steady footing since the surface lacks consistent traction and rockfall is possible if loose debris is disturbed.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length55 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the north-facing wall.

Double-check gear placements near the ledge for security.

Footwear with sticky rubber helps on the crimpers and arete sections.

Stay aware of loose flakes along the chimney and ledge areas.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade feels fairly true to its rating, with the stem across the chimney providing the crux that demands control and solid technique. While some variations push into 5.9 territory, the default line aligns well with a moderate trad grade, making this a manageable climb for those comfortable stepping into chimney sequences and clipping bolts on exposed face holds. Local climbers recognize it as a reliable mid-range challenge with a clean finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring traditional rack with emphasis on a #1 Camalot for the narrow crack past the ledge. Five bolts are fixed along the stem and face moves, blending sport and trad protection.

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Tags

chimney
trad gear
bolted face
single pitch
5.8
North Table Mountain