"I Can't Copeland delivers a focused, technical trad climb through a narrow crack on Eldorado Canyon's Redgarden Wall. This standalone pitch offers challenging crack moves and precise gear placements, making it an excellent introduction to a multi-pitch journey up The Blunt Buttress."
I Can't Copeland offers a compelling introduction to the bigger 4-pitch adventure on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. This single pitch, stretching close to 80 feet, carves a precise path through a narrow, offset seam that demands focus and a solid trad rack. The climb's distinct personality emerges in the thin line tracing the headwall just left of Sidetrack, providing a taste of the delicate, precise movement that characterizes the thicker routes above on The Blunt Buttress and The Vaporizer. The rock here has a lean, sharp edge—the kind that challenges both mental and physical steadiness, perfect for climbers keen on testing their crack climbing skills in a slightly spicy PG-13 environment.
As you follow the seam, the route reveals generous jugs lodged along the headwall, offering relief where the climbing could otherwise strain. These holds introduce a measured rhythm, preventing the ascent from tipping into brute force and allowing for a technical, committed climb without overt danger. The belay station perches on a solid ledge within a broad, right-facing corner where Sidetrack intersects, marked by a few fixed nuts offering reassurance amid the crack placements.
Gear management is a key part of the experience. A standard trad rack suffices, but doubling up on #3 Camelots saves time and energy when cleaning placements below the prominent roof. Long slings come highly recommended to manage rope drag and keep the line clean, especially where tricky nut placements appear. The route’s PG-13 rating hints at the need for careful gear placement—missed nuts here can lead to an exciting fall. A 70m rope is essential for either a single rappel back to the ground or two shorter ones to the Redgarden anchor, providing flexibility in descent strategy.
Accessing I Can't Copeland is straightforward from Eldorado Canyon’s main corridors in Boulder, but the approach still demands attention. The trail to Redgarden Wall moves through sparse pine and sandstone outcrops, whispers of wind threading through the open spaces. Expect roughly 15 minutes from the parking area, crossing varied ground that transitions from packed dirt to rocky footpaths underfoot. Early day light hits the face from the southeast, making morning climbs ideal to avoid midday heat. Late spring through early fall brings the best conditions, balancing cool shadows with dry rock.
What sets this pitch apart is not just the physical challenge but its place in the route’s larger narrative. It's a perfect warm-up and proving ground before continuing onto longer, more sustained efforts on The Blunt Buttress or venturing toward the aid-intensive sections found on higher pitches. The climb resonates with a sense of discovery and measured risk, inviting those ready to sharpen their crack technique while engaging with one of Eldorado’s lesser-traveled granite faces.
Prepare thoroughly: solid shoes with sticky rubber, plenty of water, and a methodical mindset. Be ready to adapt your protection placements on the fly, embracing the route’s playful tension between security and exposure. Whether you’re dialing in your trad skills or scouting new lines in this storied canyon, I Can't Copeland offers a precise, rewarding slice of Eldorado climbing that both rewards caution and invites boldness.
Watch your gear placements carefully—some nuts along the crack are tricky to secure and missing them can increase fall risk. The belay ledge is solid but exposed, so use caution in managing rope and anchors. Be mindful of rope drag through the offset seam and prepare for the roof by doubling up larger cams.
Approach via Eldorado Canyon trails; about 15 minutes of moderate hiking from parking.
Morning climbs benefit from southeast-facing sun and cooler rock temperatures.
Bring a 70m rope for a straightforward single rappel or two rappels to anchors.
Keep your gear organized for quick placement and removal, especially in tight crack sections.
Carry a standard trad rack with extra #3 Camelots for secure placements below the roof. Long slings reduce rope drag through tricky placements. Some nut placements demand spot-on gear to maintain a PG-13 margin of safety.
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