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Hodge Podge at Snake Buttress: A Diverse Tradition of Crack and Face Climbing

Denver, Colorado United States
finger crack
off-width
layback
tricky protection
bushy start
face climbing
multi-pitch
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Hodge Podge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hodge Podge offers an engaging two-pitch adventure at Snake Buttress with diverse crack sizes and a mix of layback and face climbing. Though rated 5.9, its thorny start and variable protection add a layer of challenge worth anticipating."

Hodge Podge at Snake Buttress: A Diverse Tradition of Crack and Face Climbing

Hodge Podge situates itself on the far left flank of Snake Buttress, part of the Cathedral Spires area along the South Platte in Colorado, offering a distinctive blend of crack and face climbing that demands both technical skill and adaptability. Approaching the climb, you’ll find yourself scrambling through uneven terrain lined with stubborn brush that seems to resist intrusion, setting an immediate tone of raw interaction with the natural environment.

The first pitch commands attention with an invitingly irregular crack nestled within a right-facing dihedral. This crack transitions through a variety of sizes—mostly fists to fingers—serving as a playground for layback moves that test balance and footwork on occasionally slippery rock. Starting from the right side, climbers navigate a series of easy cracks to reach the base, where a cluster of thorny bushes will challenge your resolve and gear choices. Double ropes come recommended here, as protection placements cluster closely, demanding thoughtful management of your slack.

As you ascend, a standout splitter crack beckons, drawing you leftward from the initial dihedral. Here, the climbing shifts into a rhythm of laybacks and underclings, a sustained dance that leads to the end of the crack’s promise. From this point, a traverse right onto more exposed face climbing unfolds—a moderate 5.7 stretch protected by an old quarter-inch bolt. This segment, though easier in technical rating, demands steady footing and focus, moving toward an anchor tucked beneath a prominent roof.

The final push climbs into an off-width roof, transitioning into a fist crack that tests your power and technique. A rusty bolt provides intermittent reassurance shortly above the anchor before the chimneying section that requires controlled arm bar moves. Once atop, climbers can exit right on a walk-off, taking in the expansive views that the Cathedral Spires area generously offers.

Despite its classic 5.9 rating, Hodge Podge carries a slightly stiffer character. The technical demands of the varied crack sizes, coupled with the tricky vegetation and occasional loose footholds, elevate the experience beyond a straightforward moderate climb. This route feels like a full expression of Colorado’s mixed climbing personality: diverse, rough-edged, and rewarding.

Access involves continuing north beyond the typical parking area for Cynical Pinnacle by approximately a quarter-mile to half a mile. A pullout on the east side of the road, perched near the river, provides a direct approach beneath the crag. From here, a steep hike follows an old gated road ascending the drainage, marked by occasional cairns and the looming presence of the Snake Buttress itself, which stands as the second major formation encountered on the path. The approach is slightly more direct and shorter than reaching Cynical Pinnacle, offering a practical yet engaging way in.

Gear-wise, come prepared with a solid rack heavy on cams, including doubles and a handful of large pieces to anchor securely in varied cracks. Long slings will ease rope drag on traverses and awkward placements. And while hedge trimmers aren’t part of standard climbing kit, patience and dexterity will be essential for negotiating the thorny bushes that guard entry to the route.

Overall, Hodge Podge embodies a balanced mix of adventure and practicality. It invites intermediate climbers looking to stretch their crack climbing proficiency with bites of face climbing, in an environment that rewards crisp footwork and thoughtful gear placement. If the start feels a bit dampened by the natural obstacles, the climb compensates with solid rock and a variety of moves that keep you engaged and progressing upward through Colorado’s rugged landscape.

Climber Safety

Watch out for the sticker bushes at the start that can snag both skin and gear. Additionally, some of the old quarter-inch bolts are rusty and may warrant extra caution or backup protection. Approach with care on the steep gated road, and be mindful of occasional loose footing especially during wet conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length feet

Local Tips

Double ropes recommended due to close protection placements and traverses.

Prepare for thorny bushes at the start—wear long sleeves and protect exposed skin.

Approach via the gated drainage north of Cynical Pinnacle parking; look for cairns.

Walk off climber's right after topping out to avoid technical downclimbing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though registered as a 5.9, Hodge Podge leans slightly stiff due to the varied crack widths and the technical sequences involved in laybacks and off-width moves. The presence of slippery feet early on and thorny brush adds to the overall effort, making it feel harder than average for the grade. Climbers familiar with nearby South Platte classics will appreciate the unique blend of crack sizes and the sustained nature of the climbing.

Gear Requirements

Heavy emphasis on cams including doubles and several large pieces is required to protect the varied crack systems. Long slings help manage rope drag, especially through traverses. Be ready for tricky placements near the vegetation.

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Tags

finger crack
off-width
layback
tricky protection
bushy start
face climbing
multi-pitch