"Gonzo's Lament stands out as a gritty four-pitch trad route on Sunshine Wall, challenging climbers with a variety of crack systems and a demanding off-width finish. Its steep approach and committed moves deliver an engaging alpine experience for trad enthusiasts ready to hone their gear placement and crack climbing skills."
Gonzo's Lament commands respect from the moment you start its steep, demanding approach on Colorado's Sunshine Wall. The trail climbs sharply through pine-scattered terrain for about 45 minutes, pushing your legs and anticipation in equal measure. Once you arrive at the cliff base, a cool, shaded notch—a chimney and gully—beckons climbers into action, the air crisp with the promise of solid cracks and hands-on engagement.
The climb kicks off with a hands-on chimney pitch. Expect careful footwork and attention to loose rock as you push upward at a 5.5 difficulty. Beyond the chimney, the rock smooths into a striking hand crack that challenges your reach, especially if you’re not on the taller side. The crux move navigating over this section tests flexibility and balance, floating right on the edge of 5.9 difficulty.
Pitch two invites you to follow a welcoming, right-side dihedral rated 5.8, or, for those seeking a harder push, there’s a recommended variation: a direct assault up intermittent cracks in the middle face, challenging small to medium cams hunters at a 5.9+ grade. This variation rewards with a gritty, pumpy experience and generous belay stances.
The third pitch depends on your second pitch choice; continuing straight up from the variation or traversing left from the dihedral leads to a sustained 5.8 vertical crack that requires steady hands and clean placements. Sit back on the final ledge here before you take on the last chapter of Gonzo's tale.
Pitch four earns the climb its name—a tough, physical 50-foot off-width crack demanding reliable big gear, specifically cams between 4 and 6 inches. The moves require both power and technique, pushing beyond the straightforward difficulty grade. Don’t underestimate its potential for fatigue and frustration. For those without the specialized gear or craving a less taxing finish, a southward traverse from the belay skirts the challenge, leading to established anchors and options for a more moderate 5.8 or a harder 5.10 crack at the last pitch of the Standard Route or Equinox.
This route rewards climbers with classic South Platte granite, where textured cracks and solid protection opportunities come alive against a backdrop of towering spires and open sky. The entire experience blends raw, adventurous climbing with measured strategy—gear up for success with a diverse rack, particularly large cams for the finale, and prepare for a strenuous approach that’s as much a part of the challenge as the rock itself.
Sunshine Wall sits within the Cathedral Spires Area, offering a rugged, relatively quiet alpine climbing zone. The elevation hovers around 7,600 feet, where pine and fir trees stand guard over the claws of granite. The wall’s northeastern exposure delivers morning shade and afternoon sun, ideal for late-spring through early fall ascents when temperatures are stable and dry. Plan your climb for early starts to beat the heat or afternoon afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.
Getting down from Gonzo's means retracing your steps carefully: downclimb where possible or opt for a controlled rappel from the fixed chains, especially if wind or weather comes into play. Loose rock and narrow ledges demand focused attention at every stage, both ascending and descending.
Ultimately, Gonzo's Lament promises a gritty climbing day—equal parts adventure and strategy—that pushes your comfort zone while rewarding control, patience, and respect for the demanding granite.
Loose rocks in the initial chimney require careful movement and helmet use. The off-width finish demands big cams and controlled technique; under-gearing or fatigue here can increase fall risk. Descend with caution, checking anchor integrity and avoiding loose debris on ledges.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the summer months.
Wear sturdy shoes with sticky rubber to manage chimney scrambling and crack jams.
Stick to the recommended variation on pitch two for more consistent protection and flow.
Reserve extra time for the steep, strenuous 45-minute approach trail.
Bring a full trad rack emphasizing cams sized 4 to 6 inches for the off-width on the final pitch. Smaller to medium cams are critical for protecting the second pitch variation and upper cracks.
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