"Going South delivers a relentless sequence of cruxes on a steep, bolted face above Roche Lake near Kamloops. This single-pitch sport climb is a focused test of strength and precision, wrapped in the outdoor serenity of British Columbia’s rugged landscape."
Going South challenges climbers with a direct, powerful route carved into the striking rock face on the right center wall of Roche Lake in the Kamloops area. Starting along the same groove as the route named "Something Totally Inappropriate," it quickly diverges, urging climbers to veer right after navigating the initial roof section. This climb tests both physical endurance and mental focus as the cruxes stack one after another, demanding precise movements and relentless commitment. The environment wraps you in the quiet hum of the British Columbian wilderness, where the rock’s texture provides sharp edges and solid holds, while the forested slopes below seem to breathe with life, daring you upward. Bolted anchors and chain belays offer reliable protection, but the sustained intensity of the 5.12a rating warns that this is no casual romp.
Though a single pitch climb, Going South packs a punch with its concentrated difficulty. The route’s steep moves require a mix of technical finger strength and careful body positioning to conquer the succession of cruxes, each overlapping the next like a gauntlet. Ideal for climbers confident in sustained sport routes, it offers a rewarding reveal of Kamloops’ growing climbing profile, far from the crowded well-trodden walls.
Timing and preparation are key here; approaching the cliff in the morning brings soft shadows and cooler conditions, making the grips less slick and the rock’s character more readable. Expect an approach through quiet woodland trails, leading you to the base where the rock patiently waits. Protecting your fingers with tape and ensuring your shoes offer a tight fit will increase your grip on this physically demanding line. Pack enough water and be ready for brisk winds that sometimes carve through the valley below.
Going South isn’t just a climb; it’s a test of grit amid the calm wilderness, a perfect mix of challenge and natural beauty. Whether you’re stepping up to push your limits or simply soaking in the surroundings, this route provides an immediate sense of accomplishment. The solid bolting and accessible chains at the top mean a smooth descent, leaving you time to savor the moment—and plan your next ascent in this lesser-explored corner of British Columbia.
Watch out for the roof sequence where falls might be longer; although bolts are well placed, proper clipping technique is essential to avoid drag. The rock is generally solid but maintain focus on foot placements, as the route’s intensity can lead to rushed movements.
Start early to climb in cooler morning conditions and avoid slick rock.
Tape your fingers to protect against sharp edges on the holds.
Wear tight-fitting climbing shoes for maximum precision on small crimps.
Carry sufficient water as the approach trails can be dry and exposed.
Fully bolted route with solid chain anchors at the top, ideal for sport climbers who prefer clipped protection without the need for trad gear. The bolts are well spaced for clipping but expect sustained clipping sequences near cruxes.
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