"Forrest Route offers a demanding trad climb framed by Colorado’s dramatic Cathedral Spires. Its challenging rock quality and route-finding puzzle require experienced judgment, alongside a full trad rack and helmet for a bold alpine adventure."
Set against the rugged beauty of Colorado’s Cathedral Spires, the Forrest Route on Sunshine Wall offers an adventurous trad climb that demands respect and careful planning. This multi-pitch line, rated 5.9- R, winds through rock that can test both your route-finding and nerve. Starting with moderate low-angle climbing on the first pitch, you quickly encounter a left-facing dihedral crack system that requires a steady hand and thoughtful protection placements. Although the rated crux lies on the second pitch, many climbers find it less demanding than expected, but poor route markings can lead to wandering—keeping you alert is essential. Vegetation clings to the rocks here, carpeting sections with green where cracks appear discontinuous and tricky to read, adding an unpredictable element to the ascent.
The rock quality is a mixed bag; lower pitches offer decent protection opportunities with gear up to 4 inches, but as you progress, the stone takes on a looser, more fragile character. The upper pitches venture through crumbly, rotten rock with questionable holds and anchors, demanding caution with every move and every piece of gear placed. A notorious feature near the top—a precarious roof guarded by time-worn slings and faded webbing—signals the need for extra vigilance. Climbing around this obstacle involves choosing between a nervy left or a slightly easier right, both with their own risks. Expect to encounter loose debris and loose blocks, with the potential for rockfall significant enough to damage ropes or cause injury, so wearing a helmet is non-negotiable.
Forrest Route's appeal stems largely from its dramatic setting amid towering spires and broad Colorado skies rather than pristine rock quality. The climb challenges your judgement and composure more than raw technique, making it well-suited for those comfortable with runout sections and who take calculated risks. Protection is primarily traditional gear—a careful selection of cams up to #4 Camalot will keep you safer on the more secure stretches. Prepare for sparse fixed hardware, aging slings, and anchors with questionable longevity.
Accessing the wall involves a straightforward hike through forested paths leading up to the base of Sunshine Wall. The approach trails are well-traveled but can feel isolated, surrounded by whispering trees and sharp mountain air. Expect about 20-30 minutes from the nearest parking area near South Platte to reach the trailhead. Colorado’s high altitude means hydration and acclimatization are key; daylight windows are generous in summer, but early spring and fall climbs are more comfortable as the rock cools under crisp breezes.
Descending requires rappelling from the slings perched atop the final pitch. Be ready for potentially tricky rope management due to rocky features near the anchors. A thorough rope inspection after the climb is essential given the rockfall risks. The route demands respect for the environment—loose rock and aged gear mean that experienced climbers who understand the hazards will get the most out of this wild, unpolished route.
In sum, the Forrest Route is an expedition into raw alpine stone, where the breathtaking backdrop competes with the challenge of unpredictable terrain. Pack your helmet, your most reliable trad rack, and your route-finding skills, and embrace a climb that stretches beyond pure difficulty into the realm of adventure and caution.
Beware of rotten rock and loose blocks especially on the upper pitches. Always wear a helmet and double-check all anchor points. Rockfall is common with significant consequences—never stand directly beneath your belayer or lead climber during sensitive sections.
Wear a helmet at all times; rockfall is a serious hazard here.
Use cams no larger than a #4 Camalot—larger gear placements are limited.
Be prepared for poor route markings; bring a topo or GPS to avoid wandering off route.
Inspect all slings and anchors carefully before trust; many are old and may be unsafe.
Bring a full set of trad protection with cams up to a #4 Camalot. Expect sparse fixed gear, with questionable slings and anchors especially near the top pitches. A helmet is mandatory due to loose rock and rockfall risk. Rope care after descent is advised.
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