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Eyes to See: A Fresh Perspective on Eldorado Canyon Trad Climbing

Boulder, Colorado United States
trad climbing
single pitch
face climbing
slender crack
arete
jug holds
Eldorado Canyon
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Eyes to See
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Eyes to See offers a fresh look at Eldorado Canyon’s famed sandstone with a single-pitch trad climb that blends slender crack work and face climbing. Ideal for moderate climbers, it demands smart gear placement and steady movement on juggy holds near the arete."

Eyes to See: A Fresh Perspective on Eldorado Canyon Trad Climbing

Eyes to See introduces climbers to a lesser-known tradition nestled within the well-tread paths of Eldorado Canyon State Park in Colorado. This route invites adventurers to approach Eldo as if for the first time, offering a brief but rewarding climb that demands focus and nimble footwork. The climb begins on straightforward terrain, gradually leading you to a distinctive boulder outcrop that marks the real start of the challenge. From there, a slender crack beckons, requiring precise hand jams and delicate movements to ascend efficiently. After clearing the crack, the route veers right onto a series of solid face holds that encourage confident movement and steady balance. The last 30 feet push upward along an arete with fewer protection options, demanding careful moves on juggy holds that feel secure yet demand control.

The route extends over a single pitch of approximately 70 feet, perfectly suited for trad climbers who appreciate technical face climbing combined with subtle crack work. Protection calls mostly for a set of Camalot C3s and up to a #2 Cam, with smaller .4 cams providing nice placements early on. The sparse gear in the upper section emphasizes the need to move smartly and trust your ability, making it an engaging experience for moderate-level climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills. Despite its modest star rating among locals, Eyes to See offers a unique chance to engage with Eldorado’s iconic sandstone on less crowded rock, giving the climb a quiet kind of authenticity.

Accessing the route is straightforward, with Eldorado Canyon’s well-maintained trails guiding you to the base within a short hike. The surrounding pine forests hum softly with the outdoors’ calm, and the clear mountain air provides refreshing encouragement as you set your gear. Climbers will find this route ideal for late spring through early fall, when conditions are dry and grip is reliable. Early morning or late afternoon approaches bring the best lighting to the face, minimizing glare and highlighting each hold’s texture.

For those seeking to expand their Eldorado experience beyond popular classics, Eyes to See is an excellent option that blends technical movement, moderate difficulty, and a fresh sense of discovery all into one pitch. It’s a reminder that even in celebrated climbing areas, silent challenges await those willing to seek them out.

Climber Safety

The last 30 feet have limited gear placements and require controlled movement on jug holds along a narrow arete—climbers should remain attentive to maintaining three points of contact and avoid rushing through this exposed section.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Aim for morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid sun glare on the face.

Pack a full set of Camalots including C3s and a #2 for best protection.

Approach via the Petit Bastille trailhead—well-marked and about a 15-minute hike.

Dry conditions are crucial; avoid climbing right after rain due to sandstone’s porosity.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:While rated at 5.8, Eyes to See carries a slightly elevated effort through its upper arete section, where protection thins and precise juggy moves are required. The grade feels fair for this combination of crack and face climbing, making it a solid introduction to Eldorado’s trad style without being too stiff or overly polished.

Gear Requirements

A solid rack of Camalot C3 sizes and a #2 Cam are essential for secure protection, with smaller .4 cams offering helpful placements early. Sparse gear in the upper section requires confidence in juggy, less protected movements.

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Tags

trad climbing
single pitch
face climbing
slender crack
arete
jug holds
Eldorado Canyon